Sun-Kissed Cliffs and Turquoise Waters: Traveling to Tropea, Italy

Mr Bear Waiting for Tropea Pick-up
Which Francesco?

Mr. Bear and my next stop was Tropea, but first I had to survive an Italian traveler's nightmare—a train strike. Not that I haven't dealt with Italian train strikes before. Usually, they last a couple of hours around noon. This one was different: 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. An entire day. My Airbnb in Tropea was booked for May 29, strike day, and I was still in Pizzo.

Not that I was eager to leave Pizzo, but fortunately my Tropea host, Francesco, volunteered to drive to Pizzo and pick me up. Coincidentally, both my Airbnb hosts were named Francesco, which made for a slightly confusing farewell. I said goodbye to Francesco while climbing into Francesco's car. Italian hospitality at its finest.

Tropea Coastline Panorama

One of the reasons I chose Tropea was that travel guides described it as an "undiscovered vacation spot." Arriving there, I wondered if those guides had been written twenty years ago. The streets were packed with visitors, and the crowds were far larger than I expected. Beautiful? Absolutely. Undiscovered? Not even close.

Tropea Beach from the Cliffs

Still, there was one thing I had been looking forward to for months: the beach. I had skipped the beach in Pizzo because I was saving that experience for Tropea's famous shoreline. As soon as I checked into my Airbnb, Mr. Bear and I headed straight for the sea.

Mr Bear at Tropea Beach

The beach was so crowded, Mr Bear took one look at the scene and refused to get out of his Eataly Beach Bag. After a brief rest and a swim in the Tyrrhenian Sea, we decided we’d had enough and went off on another adventure. 

Santuario di Santa Maria dell'Isola

This decision turned out to be the best one of the day. We discovered the Santuario di Santa Maria dell'Isola, the iconic medieval sanctuary perched atop a dramatic rocky outcrop overlooking the sea. Reached by a winding stone staircase carved into the cliffside, the sanctuary offers breathtaking views of the turquoise water and the coastline known as the "Coast of the Gods." Fortunately, I was wearing a beach cover-up, as proper attire was required for entry.

Belvedere Gardens

After visiting the sanctuary, I turned left and discovered the terraced Belvedere gardens clinging to the cliffs. 

Mr Bear Enjoying the Belvedere Gardens 

Filled with colorful flowers and peaceful pathways, the gardens offered a welcome escape from the crowds below. The views were spectacular, the gardens serene, and for a little while the noise and bustle of Tropea disappeared.

Unfortunately, the peace was temporary. As the afternoon wore on, Tropea became even more crowded, and Mr. Bear and I soon discovered that the beach was only the beginning.

Stone Stairway to the Coast

Leaving the beach, we walked back up the hill and found a terraced restaurant with a breathtaking view. Time for a Sarti Spritz and an Aperitivo, a pre-dinner ritual where buying a drink usually entitles you to complementary snacks like olives, nuts, and chips.

Aperitivo with a View

Now for dinner. Walking to the beach earlier in the day, I had discovered Trattoria Moderna Borgo Marino and decided to return that evening. The choice proved worthwhile. I ordered Spaghetti con Cozze—spaghetti with mussels. It was delicious.

Tropea Sunset

After dinner, Mr. Bear and I set off on our nightly promenade, our favorite ritual of wandering the streets while taking in the sights and sounds of a town. In Tropea the sounds were hard to miss. Conversations seemed to echo through every square and alley, and the crowds were even larger than earlier in the day.

Mr Bear Meets Francesco and Signora Cortese

Looking for a quieter path, we slipped down a narrow side street and stumbled upon another unexpected discovery: Casetta del Piccantino – Via Indipendenza. This small family-run shop, owned by Francesco Cortese, is rooted in the family’s butchery heritage and offers free tastings of regional Calabrian specialties, like ‘Nduja, a spicy, spreadable smoked pork salami from Calabria and Soppressata, a traditional Italian dry-cured pork sausage. Mr Bear and I had so much fun in this shop, Mr Bear had his photograph taken with Francesco and his beautiful wife. The best moment came when Signora Cortese learned I was writing a book about Mr Bear’s Italian Travels. She grabbed my hand and took me next door to her favorite book store Libreria il Pensiero Meridiano, and introduced me to the owner, Chiara Condò. A small independent bookstore, with a wonderful children’s section, has curated over 5,000 titles and features books in multiple languages. She asked if my book would be in Italian, and of course I replied, YES! Both Italian and English.

Mr Bear Visits the Bookshop

After this adventurous day, Mr. Bear and I headed back to the Airbnb. Tropea may not have been the quiet, undiscovered beach town described in the guidebooks, but it gave us something better—unexpected memories.

Evening in Tropea

For me, Tropea was not the crowded shoreline or the packed streets. It was the sanctuary above the sea, the family-run food shop, the welcoming bookstore, and the people who turned a one-night stop into a memorable visit. Sometimes it is not the destination itself that stays with you, but the kindness and generosity of the people you encounter along the way.

Local Artist Painting in Tropea

Tomorrow, Mr. Bear and I would be heading to Tivoli for the next chapter of our Italian adventure.