A Rome Train Transfer — Mr Bear's Train Ride to Tivoli

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A Rome Train Transfer — Mr Bear's Train Ride to Tivoli

Mr Bear happily resting on the tray table with a fresh apricot snack
before our chaotic dash across the tracks!

Train trip to Tivoli was another adventure. I had booked my train from Tropea to Tivoli and completely understood I had to change from Frecciarossa 9658 in Rome Termini to Regional 19762 in Rome Tiburtina for train to Tivoli. The problem, I had no idea how long it would take, and where to go. The most stressful part was that even the conductor on my train from Tropea to Rome could not tell me where I needed to go. Once again, I was on my own trying to figure out another Italian train transfer. Very important FYI: Italian police and security are more than willing to help you out. I even had one escort me to Metro B!. 

For anyone making this trek, Rome Tiburtina is about a 23 minute ride by Metro B from Rome Termini, and depart about every 8 – 9 minutes. You could also take a taxi, bus, car, or even a bicycle for transportation to Tiburtina.  Once I got inside the station, discovered the mutiple levels, long corridors, and the distance between platforms,  I was thinking - "Oh, I am so lost. I'm going to miss my train." For my train, Regionale Veloce 4732, with unmanned information booths, it took almost 30 minutes to get to the track, only to discover at the last minute, there was a track change and I had to run to catch my train. Yes, it showed up on time but left 15 minutes late. 

Getting to Tiburtina was the Easy Part

Tiburtina is a new, very large modern complex, with limited signage. Hurrying with my luggage, finding not one active information desk, and simply finding the correct track became an adventure of its own. It took nearly thirty minutes from the time I entered the station until I finally reached the correct platform. When I finally boarded the train, I felt more relieved than excited.

Rome Tiburtina occupies about 18,000 square meters and is much more than a railway station. Inside are shops, restaurants, offices, VIP lounges, and even spaces for art exhibits.  While it serves as one of Rome's major transportation hubs, it is also designed as a place where people can meets, shop, and socialize.

From Capo d’Orlando to the Tip of Sicily: A Day in Messina and Torre Faro

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A traditional Sicilian "feluca" swordfish fishing boat
docked near the massive steel transmission tower in Torre Faro

After leaving captivating Capo d’Orlando, I caught the train to Messina, Sicily’s gateway between the island and mainland Italy, thanking myself for not carrying more luggage than my Baggallini Sling Bag (#ad), Baggallini Backpack (#ad), and SwissGear Suitcase (#ad).

Arriving at Messina’s bus station, again I had to figure out how to get to my Airbnb. My directions said to take Bus 1 whose route goes towards Torre Faro, but get off at Via Consolare Pompea.

💡 Travel Tip: Double-check with your Airbnb host about whether you need the train, tram, or bus for your arrival. A location listed as 10 minutes from the train station could actually mean 10 minutes from the tram stop rather than the regional train station!

🏠 A Warm Sicilian Welcome

My Airbnb could not have been more perfect: it was located right across the street from the local bus stop on Via Consolare Pompea. Upon arrival, the host’s father patiently checked me in using a combination of Italian, gestures, and smiles, explaining how the security door operated, how the “dishwasher” worked, and the washer/dryer set-up.

When I accidentally locked myself out because the door closed so quickly, “Dad,” who lived in the upstairs apartment, immediately came down and got me back in. Not a word of English!! Welcome to Sicily – got to love it!!

⛲ The Storica Fontana di Paradiso

Storica Fontana di Paradiso - Due Becchi

Right along this coastal stretch of Via Consolare Pompea lies the Storica fontana di Paradiso. Known to locals as the fountain of the “Due Becchi” (Two Spouts), it is a fascinating historic landmark. It serves as a popular social hub for runners, walkers, and locals carrying large jugs to collect fresh water. Catching glimpses of this daily Sicilian routine right outside my door added such a rich layer of local color to the neighborhood.

Local Vegetable & Fruit Stand

Day Trip to Torre Faro

From Messina, figuring out the train schedule and my location, I took the local bus up to Torre Faro, located at the northeastern tip of Sicily. The route followed the beautiful coastline of the Strait of Messina, where Sicily and Calabria are separated by only a narrow stretch of water.

Forte degli Inglesi 

Right at the very edge of the cape, standing alongside the sandy shores, sits the historic Forte degli Inglesi (Fort of the English). Built by the British in the early 19th century to guard the strait against Napoleon's fleet, the sturdy stone fort contrasts beautifully against the wild coastal waters. Today, it has been wonderfully restored and houses the M.A.C.H.O. contemporary art museum.

Torre Faro / To the Fishermen / Fallen at Sea

Just a short walk away along the promenade, facing directly into the swirling currents of the sea, I stopped before the Monumento ai Pescatori Caduti in Torre Faro Dedicated to the local fishermen lost to the deep waters, the white stone sculpture swoops upward like a powerful, cresting wave frozen in time. The plaque placed firmly at its base reads: "Torre Faro / Ai Pescatori / Caduti in Mare / 23 Aprile 2008"—a solemn reminder of how closely tied Torre Faro's identity is to both the gifts and the dangers of the Strait.

Pylons of Messina

Just adjacent, dominating the entire landscape, was the massive steel transmission tower
rising high above the shoreline. Standing directly beneath it, I photographed the lattice structure disappearing into the bright Sicilian sky. The tower’s scale is difficult to appreciate until you are standing at its base looking straight up!

The Telepass Ferry crossing the Strait

Torre Faro also offered excellent views across the strait toward mainland Italy. Ferries crossed regularly between Sicily and Calabria while fishing boats moved through the busy waters below.

Sandy at the Astronomical Clock

The Astronomical Clock

Before leaving Messina, I visited the Astronomical Clock beside the cathedral. The clock tower is one of the city’s best-known landmarks and draws visitors from around the world. Standing in the piazza, I appreciated both the craftsmanship and history behind this remarkable structure.

With Messina and Torre Faro explored, Mr Bear and I began preparing for the next stage of my journey—crossing the Strait of Messina and continuing on to Calabria.

Mr Bear heading to Calabria. Next stop Pizzo!

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Beachside Bliss in Capo d'Orlando: Brioche, Granita, and Mr Bear's Coastline Adventure

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Pure peace. The stunning, sweeping view of the deep blue sea
from my balcony in Capo d'Orlando.

Today I am sad. I have to depart this beautiful place. I believe of all the gorgeous destinations I have visited, Capo d’Orlando and New Mexico now hold my heart, spirit, and soul. I love it here. I have made wonderful friends just walking about with Mr. Bear, and the view from my Airbnb is incredible, both night and day.

Our new friends, Charley and Titti, at their favorite wine shop, Enoteca Collovà—they loved meeting Mr Bear and showing us their favorite Sicilian bottles!

On my first day in Capo d’Orlando, Mr. Bear and I met Charley and Titti at the small grocery store close by. When ordering at the deli counter for cheese, olives, and meats, I gave it a brave go, but I was completely lost. Pounds make perfect sense to me, but an etto? I learned a hectogram—one etto—is 100 grams, meaning a quarter-pound is approximately one etto. Armed with my new knowledge, I attempted to order: “Un etto, affettato molto fine, per favore.” (A quarter-pound, sliced very thin, please.)

Charley stepped in with a smile and asked, “English?”

“Yes!” I replied.

He kindly asked what I was trying to buy and completely took over the ordering for me. Then came the typical, friendly travel questions: Where are you from? How long are you here? It turns out he has deep roots in the USA but has lived here his whole life. He and his partner, Titti, run an incredible school teaching refugee children English and Environmental Studies. Their wonderful organization can be found at Joy for Children. Next on my list was finding a nice bottle of wine. “Perfect, we’ll take you to our favorite," Charley said. Without a second thought, off I went with Titti and Charley to a wine shop nearby. We arrived at the funkiest wine and cheese shop, Enoteca Collovà. Since 1995, Enoteca Collovà has represented one of the most important hubs in the local world of wine. 

Mr Bear sitting with a brioche bun and local pistachio granita
at Tentazioni in Capo d Orlando Sicily

Before parting ways, they made sure to point out Tentazionia, for best granita - semi-frozen Sicilian dessert made from sugar, water, and fresh flavorings. It is churned just enough to achieve a unique crystalline yet creamy texture, top with real whipped cream, and it is traditionally served with a warm, fluffy brioche. This wonderful delight is traditionally eaten for breakfast here! 

Exhaustion was finally setting in by then, so I headed back to MareBlu—my incredible beachfront Airbnb—for a peaceful nap right on the shore.

May 22: Another Beautiful Day in Capo d’Orlando

The next morning, Mr. Bear and I headed out for our daily walk, this time toward the center of Capo d’Orlando.  

Peg Perego holding Mr Bear in front of the
Sanitaria Germana store in Capo d'Orlando, Sicily!

During our walk, Mr. Bear decided he desperately needed sunshades because the Sicilian sun is so bright it hurts his eyes, so that became priority number one. In the cute town center, we discovered the sweetest children’s shop to source his tiny BamBoom sunshades: Sanitaria Antonella Germanà.

During our beach walk back from the town center, I dipped my foot in the water. The sea here is as cold as Maine, yet there was a brave local man going for a full swim! Along the way, I spotted a sign showing the sister cities of Capo d’Orlando: Culver City, CA, and Fremantle, West Australia. We passed an outdoor gym overlooking the beach and rows of quiet restaurants just waiting to open for the upcoming summer tourists. Moving along, Mr. Bear and I discovered a very typical local shop where household items are sold—carrying everything from massive washing machines and kitchen mixers to Yankee Candles!

By the time we reached the heart of the town center, lunch was definitely in order. Oops—it was already after 2:00 PM, which is exactly when shops and restaurants close up tight for the afternoon Sicilian riposo. Wondering where on earth to find a bite to eat, I asked a shop owner who was locking up his storefront. He kindly pointed me toward Antica Panetteria, a wonderful local bakery.

The amazing, warmhearted local bakers (mom, daughter, and son)
who kept Mr Bear and me fully fueled with fresh Sicilian treats!

For our afternoon picnic, I picked out a Pizza Classica Vegetariana topped with rich tomatoes, goat cheese, caramelized onions, and fresh basil. OMG—delizioso!

The ultimate beachside lunch!

Mr Bear, wearing his new BamBoom sunglasses, soaking up the sun next to a slice of ultra-fresh local pizza.

Mr. Bear and I headed back to our beach retreat to enjoy our delicious picnic on the sand and prepare for our sad departure tomorrow. But my feet continue to be so happy with my last minute packing decision Taos Star Sneakers (#ad). was an absolute lifesaver for our long daily strolls.

But wait, we’re still in Sicily... let’s see what we discover next in Messina!

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Squeezing Through Cefalù: A "Hobbit House," La Rocca, and a Hidden 1909 Cinema

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Squeezing Through Cefalù: A "Hobbit House," La Rocca, and a Hidden 1909 Cinema

After the city life of Palermo, arriving in Cefalù felt like a relief with its slower Sicilian rhythm. Even so, I was initially overwhelmed by the sheer number of tourists; much like Taormina, the streets were filled with intense tourist energy.

What made Cefalù so special was staying in the coolest Airbnb,which I affectionately nicknamed my “Hobbit House.” My host, Maria Marsala, invited me to join a walk with her two dogs, Zoe and Zeus, giving me a rare glimpse of everyday life beyond the crowded tourist paths. Later in my stay, we had dinner at one of her favorite restaurants, Il Normanno, where I enjoyed a wonderful, authentic Sicilian meal and Maria even introduced me to the owner. These are the kinds of special travel memories you just can't buy.

Scenic aerial view of the turquoise blue ocean coast and houses
from the top of La Rocca di Cefalu, Sicily

I knew I had to hike La Rocca di Cefalù, the rocky 268-meter-high (880 foot) promontory that towers majestically over the historic town. Located just a 15-minute walk from my Hobbit House, and 5 euros later, Mr. Bear and I set off. We were determined to discover an area rich in prehistoric history, including the Temple of Diana, a sacred megalithic structure constructed in the 5th or 4th century BC. Standing there, I couldn't help but chuckle thinking about us back in the United States celebrating our 250 years!

Just a bit of an FYI: Mr. Bear and I share a dreadful fear of heights. Keeping our eyes open during the climb was an absolute necessity, even if it felt a bit perilous at times.

Mr Bear and me with two new wonderful friends, Sara and Lucia,
whose encouragement completely saved the day on our way down La Rocca!

The summit views were incredible, but then came the hard part—we had to go down! We were completely saved by two wonderful young women, Sara and Lucia, best friends since childhood who were traveling together. Their friendly encouragement helped Mr. Bear and me bravely navigate our way back down La Rocca. Sara and Lucia, thank you so much!

I love to wander, and guess what else I found? Cinema di Francesca, a beautiful cinema-theater that originally opened in 1909 on Cefalù's main street. Today, it serves as a museum, cinema, and theater. Over its century-long history, it has welcomed famous performers like Angelo Musco and Rosina Anselmi, while continuing to provide a venue for local comedies and variety shows. Mr. Bear and I took an Airbnb tour of Cefalù

The front entrance door and marquee sign of the historic Cinema di Francesca
dal 1909 theater in Cefalu Sicily

Stepping back in time inside the cinema museum
to look at the incredible antique film reels
and early 20th-century projectors.

A portrait honoring Salvatore Di Francesca,
the true pioneer of cinema who started it all right here in Cefalù.

Squeezing through the narrowest passageway in Cefalù on Corso Ruggero
—thank goodness for the flexibility of my MVP Taos sneakers!

Speaking of hidden gems, no one else seems to mention the town’s narrowest passageway, but our tour guide made sure we not only saw it but squeezed through! You can find it tucked away on Corso Ruggero, right next to West Coast Sports. I was incredibly thankful I was wearing my Taos Star Sneakers—that canvas flexibility and solid arch support kept kept my feet so happy!

At night, the cross on top of La Rocca is beautifully illuminated and can be seen from throughout Cefalù. For the local community, it serves as an enduring symbol of faith overlooking the town. Special memories, indeed.

Standing by the majestic summit cross on La Rocca, which serves as a
beautifully illuminated symbol of faith overlooking the town at night.

Next stop Capo d'Orlando! 

The Day of Three Trains, Lost Keys, and a BMW: My Sicilian ATM Saga

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The Day of Three Trains, Lost Keys, and a BMW: My Sicilian ATM Saga

Capo d’Orlando – May 21

I have to write about my Palermo before I forget the absolute turmoil of situations that happened. Looking back, none of it was actually my fault, it is now a fresh day. I survived, and honestly? Now it’s just comical.

Thank goodness I had the presence of mind to photograph
this Via G. Carducci street sign
so I could find my way back to the bank!

The absolute first time I ever used an ATM card was in Palermo, Sicily. Yes, on my vacation. First mistake: I should have tried it at home before I left the States, but I didn’t. And a friend claimed "Not Necessary!" 

Walking down Via G. Carducci, I passed the Credem BancoMat. Thank goodness I had the presence of mind to take a picture of the location, because when I went to use the machine, it gave me a receipt—but absolutely no cash. With my limited Italian, I managed to explain what happened to a nice lady who arrived to use the machine after me. She tried it; it worked. A gentleman arrived next, we explained the situation, and his transaction worked, too. I tried a second time and, lucky me, it worked—but I was still out the money from my original transaction.

The exterior stone steps and entrance of
the Credem Bank branch in Palermo, Sicily

FYI Travel Tip: Never, ever use a foreign ATM at a bank on a Saturday or Sunday when the bank itself is closed.

I tried calling the support number on the machine. Lucky me, the recording was entirely in Italian! Returning to my Airbnb, I explained the mess to my host, Rose. She gave it a go, but since it was the weekend, she told me I’d have to wait until Monday.

The only problem? On Monday, I was scheduled to be in Cefalù.

Me with my wonderful Cefalù host and absolute savior,
Maria, before she misplaced her car keys!

I contacted my next host in Cefalù, Maria, and she was an absolute savior. She told me not to worry and that we’d figure it out when I arrived. True to her word, Maria contacted all the right people and got a resolution. The catch? I had to go back to the actual bank branch in Palermo to get my cash.

May 20 - the day I was supposed to be traveling straight to Capo d’Orlando. Instead, the crazy day started:

1. Boarded a train back to Palermo.

2. Arrived, then took another local train to get closer to the bank’s address.

3. Walked. And walked. It seemed to take forever to finally locate the bank.

4. Arrived at the bank. To their credit, they admitted there was a problem. However, they told me I had to come back at 3:00 PM after they opened the physical ATM to verify the cash count. They promised everything would be sorted out then.

5. Returned at 3:00 PM. After a mountain of paperwork, signatures, and a photo of my driver’s license, I finally got my money back!

6. Took the train back to Cefalù. Maria had graciously offered to meet me at the station with my suitcase (I had left it behind so I could navigate Palermo lightly). The only problem? Maria couldn’t find her car keys!

7. Walked back to the Airbnb, grabbed my suitcase and knapsack, and rushed back to the station for the 5:46 PM train to Capo d’Orlando. The train didn’t arrive.

8. Checked the schedule. The next train wasn’t until 6:26 PM. It gets funnier here because there were so many lovely, well-meaning people around me trying to help, but no one spoke English. I tried using Google Translate, but it just wasn’t doing the trick.

9. So, I sat and waited.

10. A train finally arrived right on time. The right time, but the wrong train! It was a “Sleeper Comfort” train with no accommodation for sitting passengers.

11. The next train wasn’t scheduled for another hour, at 7:26 PM. I waited. Remember, this is Italy—the train actually rolled in at 7:50 PM.

12. I messaged my host in Capo d’Orlando, whom I thought was a woman. This was the same host who had agreed to pick me up at the station.

13. By this point, I had been at this transit game all day long.

14. Exhausted, disheveled, and probably looked like a total ragamuffin standing on the platform with my bags.

And then? The most gorgeous Italian man stepped out of his sleek BMW to pick me up and whisk me away to my Airbnb right on the beach.

Scenic blue ocean coast and beach view from the Airbnb balcony
 in Capo d Orlando Sicily

After all that, life is good again!