Ortigia: Where Time Takes a Detour

 

After the energy of Catania, Ortigia felt like a different world. My Airbnb was tucked away in what seemed like an ancient corner alley, just steps away from Fonte Aretusa (Fountain Arethusa), the reservoir famous in legends and literature for its fresh water. 

From my second-floor balcony, complete with a dependable place to hang for my laundry, I could look down on five restaurants where locals and tourists gathered in the late evening for lively meals and conversation. 

This quickly became a relaxing heaven for me. My morning began with a much-anticipated pistachio cream filled croissant and espresso. Evening were spent on my balcony watching life unfold, below while sipping my Sicilian aaperitivo). Oh, life is so good!

One afternoon, exploring Ortigia’s historical center near Piazza Duomo, I discovered the gallery of Danilo Ricciardi. Words cannot adequately describe the contemporary art I encountered or the warmth and openness of the artist himself. A warm hug made the visit even more memorable.

Continuing my stroll on the extremely narrow, labyrinthine streets, many times having to literally jump out of the way of the overly large SUVs, I discovered the Archimede & Leonardo da Vinci Museum. This museum highlights the remarkable connections between the ideas of Archimedes (214 -230 BC) and the inventions of Leonardo da Vinci (1452 -1519 AC).  Featuring many hands-on replica wooden models of da Vinci’s inventions alongside those of the ancient mathematician Archimedes’ drawings and ideas, this museum fascinated Mr Bear and me.

Around the corner was my goal for the day: the Museo of Pupi, tucked away on a small street in the old Jewish quarter of Guidecca. I love puppetry and needed to see, firsthand the incredible collection of handcrafted marionettes, or "pupi." What made the visit even more special was “teatro dei pupi," an afternoon performance of “Chiuso la Domemica.” Magical, even if it was all in Italian – made my day special.

Still wandering about, I discovered a treasure trove of unique shops on Via Roma, Ortigia. At Fikissima, where each handcrafted item contains the history, colors, and warmth of Sicily, the owner warmly welcomed Mr Bear and me. After a photograph together and a connecting on Instagram, I left with birthday gifts and another fond memory of Ortigia. Needing something to eat I ventured on to Ortigia Fish Bar for their ultra-fresh and tasty seafood dishes. How could I go wrong?

Sadly, knowing tomorrow I was leaving, but heading to Palermo, I needed directions. Off to the Ortigia Servizio Turistico Regionale (STR) (Regional Tourist Office) where I discovered the friendliest people, filled with so much helpful information. I was happily informed, “Sandy, you and Mr Bear will take the bus to Palermo.” So, the bus it was. 

Leaving Ortigia behind, Mr Bear claimed the window seat for the journey to  Palermo. The comfortable three-hour ride crossed the heart of Sicily, revealing snow-covered Mt Etna, rolling green hills, brilliant yellow spring wildflowers, and views that made the miles pass unnoticed. 

It was relaxing to reflect on all Ortigia had offered, and all the friends and  experiences Mr Bear and I have shared since leaving my cousin in Rome. Onward, Mr Bear and I go!  I highly recommend this is the way to cross Sicily.

Italian Fashion: Individuality, not Conformity

Before this trip to Italy, which I have visited fifteen separate times, I watched a few videos explaining what Italians wear. Linen in summer, leather shoes, neutral colors, simple jewelry, and carefully coordinated outfits. Some even suggested that tourists should avoid sneakers, logos on t-shirts, bright colors, or casual clothing.

After my recent month walking the streets of Rome, Catania, Ortigia, Palermo, Cefalù, Capo d' Orlando, Messina, Pizzo, Tropea and Tivoli. I found a quite different reality.

Italians dress much like the rest of us: according to their lifestyle, the weather, comfort, and personal taste. I observed white sneakers everywhere. Jeans. Puffer jackets. Long skirts. Colorful coats. Business attire. Casual attire. Even t-shirts with logos on both men and women. And occasionally a fabulous pair of boots that made a statement all their own.

As a former Fashion Design professor, I find the influencer’s version of Italian fashion amusing. Real fashion has never been about following rules; it is fashion that reflects one’s personality, mood, lifestyle, weather, comfort, age, and confidence.

What struck me most was not a particular style, but the individuality. The women I photographed were not models, influencers, or fashion bloggers. These women were simply going about their day - meeting friends, shopping, commuting, enjoying a coffee, or taking an evening stroll.

The greatest lesson about so-called Italian fashion is not that it does not exist, but it is often portrayed as something far more standardized than it really is. It has nothing to do with brands, colors, or trends. The women and men, who looked the most stylish were the ones who seemed comfortable being themselves.

My observation was that Sicily and Italy are filled with individuality rather than conformity

 For you, just travel with what you are comfortable wearing, relax, observe, and enjoy beautiful Italy as yourself.

A Stranger on The Bench

Looking back, I realize my Italian adventure was not defined by perfect travel days. Instead, it was a series of unexpected challenges, each followed by an equally unexpected solution.

My trip began in Rome with hardly any hot water at my first Airbnb. Then came an ATM that refused to dispense my requested Euros, an eSim that did not work as advertised, a train strike, and not one but two major national holidays when it seemed half the country had decided to take the day off.

Just when I thought I had mastered Italy's transportation system, I discovered that "walking distance from the train station" meant something entirely different to my Airbnb hosts that it did to me. Double/triple check which train station they are referencing.

*Then There Was The Overnight Train To Sicily*

My cousin had carefully made sure I boarded the correct train in Rome, so I settled into my compartment confident the rest of the journey would be easy.

Having never traveled on a sleeper train before, I had read the “what’s included” for this train adventure. The description advertised dinner, refreshments, a midnight snack, and breakfast. I was so looking forward to this experience. Instead, I found myself in a small cabin with little explanation and a conductor who seemed annoyed by my questions. It quickly became apparent that this part of my journey was not going to match my expectations. I was on my own.

In the incredibly early morning hours, the train crossed the Strait of Messina. No one had explained that passengers continuing to Catania would need to transfer to another train. I sat quietly in my compartment, expecting the journey to continue as planned.

When I stepped into the hallway, I saw the rude conductor at the opposite end of the train car and was surprised when he yelled at me. "Get off this train, NOW!"

Completely confused, I grabbed Mr Bear, my knapsack, small suitcase, and stepped onto the platform. Within minutes the train was gone, leaving me standing in a terminal I had never seen before, wondering where and what to do next.

Walking into the terminal unsure of what to do next, I spotted a gentleman sitting on the one and only bench. Discovering he spoke English, I explained my situation. Surprisingly, he had overslept on the train and missed the Catania connection as well. What helped most was that he was from Catania and agreed to assist me in finding the address of my Airbnb. Again, not a 10-minute walk from the train station.

Only after he knew I had arrived safely to my building, did we sit and have an espresso. He spoke warmly of his city and insisted I try Pasta alla Norma and local Etna Rosso wine.

Looking back, my first memory of Sicily is not Mt Etna, the fish market, or the beautiful architecture. It is the warmhearted kindness of a stranger who welcomed a confused traveler and made sure she arrived safely. I encountered this same warmheartedness throughout my 38 days in Sicily. The Sicilian people are so compassionate, generous, and always willing to help.

 

I'm in Italy - What Could Go Wrong?

 

Rome was my first stop on my 38-day Italian adventure. Upon arrival in Trastevere, I discovered the Airbnb was in Monteverde, a section of Rome about 35 minutes by Tram 8 from the neighborhood I had originally hoped to stay. Travel plans rarely go exactly as expected.

The accommodation turned out to be a two-bedroom flat for a graduate student in middle of exam week, with his father visiting. The list mentioned a kitchen, which was not available for guest use. I also shared the bathroom with host and his father; consequently, hot water was limited throughout my stay. With worn towels and limited promised amenities, I found myself wondering why this graduate student had chosen to make this room available during exam week while his father was visiting.

I will give the host credit for trying to help with my eSim issue. Although we made several attempts, we were never able to get it to work.

The much-advertised Vodafone eSim did not work as advertised. Supposedly, once my plane landed and I walked outside, the eSim would automatically connect. Not so. Despite following all the directions there was no connection, no map, no internet. There was absolutely no way to contact my cousin or the Airbnb I had booked for the next three nights.

Fortunately, my Spectrum service, roaming, and WhatsApp eventually helped bridge the gap. From the FCO airport, the regional train carried me to the Travestere train station. With directions pieced together in broken English, local police were able to figure out where I was headed, and I was on my way. After stumbling off the suggested Tram 8 stop and following what I interpreted as directions to the “10-minute walk from train”, the host met me at the end of the alley and walked me to his Airbnb.

Exhausted, I climbed into bed knowing I had a “Taste Secret Roman Flavors and Hidden Treasures” tour scheduled at 11am the next morning. Did not happen! I woke up at 11am and missed my first adventure.

FYI – Do not book a morning adventure the day after you arrive in Italy, especially if your trip begins with transportation problems, a failed eSim, and an unexpected Airbnb surprise.

Missing the “Tasting” turned out for the best. After much needed sleep, Mr Bear and I took Tram 8 into Trastevere to begin his Italian adventure. Having been to Rome before, I knew what to expect. However, for Mr Bear this was his first Rome adventure. Together we discovered the Museo di Rome, Largo di Torre Argentina, walked through Campo de Fiori (not what I remembered), and made our way to Pantheon for our last-minute scheduled tour. What fun we had!

Before our Pantheon tour started, we stopped at DolceRotonda for an espresso and the most delicious croissant filled with a tangy lemon cream. A must-try treat!!

Our Pantheon guide, Jessica Coppola of JC Tour Guide,was wonderful, bringing the history, architecture, and myths of this remarkable building to life. When she met Mr Bear and realized our stay in Rome was short, she signed us up for her son’s Golf Cart Tour - Rome so Mr Bear could have a quick city tour. It was just such fun! We stopped at all the “must see while in Rome” without walking miles!!

*My cousin Edda and Delightful Husband, Save the Day*

Edda picked me up at my Airbnb and off we went to get Massimo and attend his friend’s May Day Celebration. But first, the TIM phone shop to get a real SIM chip for my phone!! How can such a small item save my vacation? I am thrilled: my phone works and I have an Italian phone number!! Life is Good! No ESim for me!

Off to the celebration. This is a real, honest to goodness Italian feast, and hardly anyone spoke English! Everyone was cooking, laughing, eating, dancing – so much food!

What a wonderful send off for me. Everyone had their opinions “you must see this, do not waste time on this, see the clock in Messina, too many tourists in Taormina. On and on it went all-in good-hearted fun, and me absorbing it all, like I am in an Italian movie.

The night is over. We head back to Rome, for tomorrow I will spend the day with Edda, Massimo, and her dad, before Edda takes me to the train. It was sad to leave them, but I was so excited finally be on my way. What could go wrong?

The four of us had such a wonderful day sharing memories of the many times I have visited Italy, and when Edda would visit me in Boston. How her mom, Aunt Margaritte, tried to teach me a few Italian dishes, and we would laugh so hard because we did not have a clue what each other was saying. Memories!!

 Reclaiming the Dream: How I Survived a PayPal Scam and Planned a 38-Day Solo Odyssey to Sicily

​I started working on this magical dream back in June 2025. Then, the universe threw a diabolical curveball: I got scammed on PayPal.

​Recouping from a financial disaster like that can break your spirit, or it can sharpen your focus. I chose the latter. I needed something massive, beautiful, and healing to look forward to. I became utterly hyper-focused on Italy. I’d been before, but I had never been to Sicily.

​Why not Sicily for a whole month? I thought.

​By January 2026, I took the leap and booked my ticket to Rome using my Delta SkyMiles (we will get into that absolute fiasco in a later post, believe me). By February, with some loving probing from friends, the blueprint began to take shape.

​As an ITMI Certified tour guide, I have professional experience planning travel, but doing it for yourself as a solo female traveler hits differently. My trip was set: April 27 to June 3. Thirty-eight days to decide the where, the how, and the what.

​Here is the 20-point master checklist I used to pull myself out of the scam aftermath and get my boots on Italian soil.

​The Solo Traveler’s Pre-Trip Master Checklist

​The Dates: April 27 – June 3. Why? It just felt right at the time. (Spoiler: Spring in Italy is spectacular).

​The Ticket: Secured via Delta Miles (despite the drama). The Delta ticket agent misinformed me: Delta Comfort Class is NOT Delta's new classification for Delta Business Class.

​Current Passport: Double-checked expiration dates. A valid passport is non-negotiable.

​Driver’s License: Up to date, just in case.

​Cell Phone Connections: Learned this the hard way. My eSim failed in Rome, so I switched to a TIM SIM with an Italian phone number. Problem solved.

​Wall Plugs: More than one. You can never have too many outlets in a centuries-old building.

​The Tech Sync: Getting a tablet completely compatible with my phone. If you are taking one, making sure they talk to each other seamlessly is a massive priority.

​Credit Cards: Zero foreign transaction fees, and no need for stressful overseas notifications. 

ATM: Double check your pin, and that it works. Also, check if there are transaction fees.

​Health Provider: Checked in advance to see what my domestic plan covered overseas.

​Travel Insurance: Absolutely non-negotiable. Check the prices, read the fine print, and get covered. Check with your insurance company first!

​The First-Aid Kit: Not just prescriptions. Think ahead: pain relievers, stomach meds, blister bandages, and eye drops. Think!

​The Big Question: Where are you going, and how long are you staying?

​The Wardrobe Reality Check: Citizens all over the world look just like you. Yes, Europeans wear white sneakers and jeans!

​The Capsule Wardrobe: Pack outfits, not closets. Remember: no one knows you, and absolutely no one will notice if you wear the same outfit twice. You are the one who is going to be hauling those suitcases and knap-sack up train station stairs, and rental apartments with no elevator. Remember, Italian towns are thousands of years old!

​The Comfy Pivot: Always pack something lightweight and cozy to change into at the end of a long day of exploring.

​Laundry Plan: Know where and how you’re washing clothes before you pack weeks of gear.

​Shoes: One solid pair for heavy walking, one pair "for maybe," and sandals if necessary. These Taos Sneakers were the MVPs of my Italian adventure. For 38 days they carried me through airports, train stations, ancient streets, archaeological sites, and more staircases I care to count. If you're packing for a long trip, invest in one comfortable pair of shoes for walking and trust them. FYI, both Italian men and women wear sneakers, espeically white. Bonus tip: Don't forget lightweight slippers for the rental. Your toes will thank you.

​Emergency Contact List: Written down, printed out, and shared.

​The Budget: Oh yes, last but definitely not least—keeping the finances tight and secure.

​The Strategy: Friends, Family, and Finding Safety

​Safety is my top priority as a solo female traveler. For more than nine years, I've almost exclusively used Airbnb because I value how carefully they vet their hosts. It gives me peace of mind when I'm navigating a new city alone.

​The logistics of this 38-day trip lined up beautifully. I’m lucky enough to have a cousin in Rome, and dear friends in Grosseto and the Rieti Valley. But because Sicily was uncharted territory for me, I built the ultimate itinerary: a heartwarming reunion in Lazio followed by a deep, slow dive into the football at the toe of Italy.

​I divided my trip into distinct travel hubs:

The Reunion: Rome, catching up with family.

​Ionian Coast: Catania for Mt Etna, Taormina for Ancient Greek Theatre (too crowded for me), and Messina for Torre Faro and The Astronomical Clock.

Syracuse and Southeast - Ortigia a small walkable island with Greek ruins and the Museo dei Pupi. 

Palermo: The vibrant, high-energy capital of Sicily.

Tyrrhenian Coast: Cefalù for a La Rocca hike, and Capo d' Orlando for a view of the Aeolian Islands.

The Journey Home: Ferry crossing the Strait of Messina, train to Pizzo, then Tropea and Tivoli before returning home.

​Getting scammed might have delayed my stride, but it didn't stop my journey. It proved to me that a setback is often just the prologue to an unforgettable adventure. 

​Fellow travelers, have you ever had to rebuild a dream trip after a major financial setback? What does your non-negotiable packing list look like? Let me know in the comments below!

I'm off to Italy in May!!

Back to Blogging: Italy Bound!

Well, here we are again. The blog rises from the digital dust, and this time I'm actually writing about what happened today instead of what I meant to write about three weeks ago.

So what happened today? I dove headfirst into planning mode for my May trip to Italy, and friends, the rabbit hole is deep and wonderful.

The Plan (So Far)

Flying into Rome, because all roads lead there and all that. But I'm not lingering long in the Eternal City—at least not at first. The real adventure starts when I head south to catch a ferry over to Sicily, where I plan to plant myself for a solid 10 days. Ten days! Time to actually be somewhere instead of just seeing it.

After Sicily works its magic on me (and let's be honest, it will), I'll head back north to visit friends and relatives in Cisterna, Grosseto, and then circle back to Rome. It's going to be that perfect mix of explorer mode and reconnecting with people who matter.

The Tech Situation

Here's where things get real: I just bought a Samsung Galaxy S25+ and a Samsung Tab S10 FE. Yes, both. Because apparently I've decided to enter my "fully equipped traveler" era.

Now comes the fun part—figuring out chargers, cords, and power packs. How many adapters does one person need? How many USB-C cables is too many? (Trick question: there's no such thing.) And do I really need that portable power bank, or do I just want it because it looks cool?

These are the questions that keep me up at night. Well, these and streamlining my vitamin situation, which is a whole other organizational challenge I'm tackling simultaneously.

AI Trip Planning: A Confession

I have a confession to make: I've been using ChatGPT and Claude to brainstorm this trip, and they've been fantastic. Look, I usually do all my itinerary planning myself—it's part of the joy—but there's something fun about bouncing ideas off an AI that doesn't judge you for asking "What if I just spent all 10 days eating arancini in Palermo?"

They've offered suggestions I hadn't considered and helped me think through logistics in ways that actually make sense. Who knew the machines would be so good at helping plan la dolce vita?

I'm Off - Again

So that's where things stand today. May feels both impossibly far away and right around the corner. Between now and then: more planning, more gear sorting, and definitely more blog posts about the journey.

Stay tuned. This time I mean it.

Ciao for now!

Sandy

 A Beautiful Fall Hike to King Creek Fall, South Carolina

There's something beautifully stubborn about refusing to let a broken wrist keep you off the trail. That's exactly the energy I brought to Sumter National Forest this past Monday, November 20, when my hiking group and I tackled the King Creek Falls trail on what turned out to be an absolutely stunning fall day.

The forecast promised perfection, and Mother Nature delivered. The kind of crisp autumn morning where the air feels like it's been filtered through golden leaves, and every breath tastes like possibility. My crew assembled at the trailhead, all enthusiastic chatter and the rustle of hiking poles. I showed up with my arm in a brace, grinning like I'd won the lottery.

"You sure about this?" someone asked, eyeing my wrist. Since I hiked with them last week, they were a bit more confident in my joining the group. "I've got two feet and one good arm. That's three out of four limbs. I'm basically at 75% capacity," I reasoned. The math was questionable, but the determination was solid.

The trail wound through a kaleidoscope of reds, oranges, and yellows. South Carolina's fall foliage doesn't get enough credit—the forest looked like it had been set on fire by an artist with impeccable taste. We crunched through leaves, hopped over roots, and I quickly discovered that hiking with one functional arm is like suddenly remembering you're a tightrope walker who forgot their balance pole.

Those moments where you'd normally grab a tree for stability? Suddenly an adventure. Rocky sections that call for a quick hand on a boulder? Now a full-body balancing act. I found myself doing this weird penguin-waddle thing on the steeper descents, arms out (well, one arm out, one arm tucked), looking like I was perpetually about to hug someone.

My hiking buddies were absolute champions. Without making a big deal of it, someone always seemed to be nearby when the terrain got tricky. A subtle "watch that root" here, an offered hand there: just grab the elbow, not the wrist, please!. The kind of quiet support that makes you remember why you love these people.

Then we rounded the corner, and there it was—King's Creek Falls, tumbling over moss-covered rocks in a series of cascades that caught the dappled sunlight like liquid gold. The sound alone was worth the wobbly walk. We stood there, breathing hard, grinning wider, and I felt ridiculously proud of my one-armed achievement.

Someone pulled out snacks. Someone else found the perfect rock for a group photo. I managed to drink from my water bottle without pouring it down my shirt, which felt like a genuine victory.

The hike back was easier, as return trips always are. We stopped at one of the camping sites along the Chattooga River: this river forms the border between South Carolina and Georgia and is a designated Wild and Scenic River. My wrist throbbed a bit, sure, but my spirit? Soaring. Because sometimes the best adventures aren't about perfect conditions, they're about showing up anyway, embracing the wobble, and letting good friends and gorgeous trails remind you that obstacles are just plot twists in a really good story.

 

King's Creek Falls: 10/10. Would definitely wobble through again.