Tivoli: Two Villas, New Friends, and a Town that Stole My Heart

Tivoli on the Hillside

Tivoli, a UNESCO town on the western slopes of Mount Tiburtina, has enjoyed the richness of their thermal springs since ancient times, dating back to approximately 1215 BC. Knowing Tivoli is famous for its thermal springs and is my last stop before my overnight in Rome and my flight back to USA, I had to go soak in the much-anticipated springs.

Mr Bear and I left Tropea on the train heading to Tivoli, with the thought of soaking in the warm thermal springs already firmly cemented in my brain. After my fabulous month of traveling through Rome, Sicily, and Calabria, I truly felt I deserved this much-anticipated luxury.

Mr Bear was ready to make new friends
on the train to Tivoli

Boarding the train, Mr Bear and I discovered we were seated with two couples traveling together. At first, no one spoke. Then Mr Bear decided it was time to “pop out of confinement” and create some fun!! Within minutes, smiles replaced silence as introductions were made, stories shared, and what began as a quiet train ride became one of the unexpected highlights of my trip. Train journeys can be such wonderful, even when you aren’t fluent in the language.

Mr Bear broke the ice, and soon
we were all laughing together on the train. 

The true chaos began the closer we got to Rome Termini. I happened to mention I was changing trains from Rome Termini to Rome Tiburtina. No one - not even the two conductors - had a clue. The advice?  Head to Metro B and ask for help. Which I did. A very handsome security guide kindly escorted me to Metro B. Be still my heart…and my gray hair!

Arriving in Tivoli, my Airbnb hostess, Claudia, and her daughter met at the station and whisked me off to my home for the last four days of Mr Bear’s and my Italian adventure. As I stated previous, Tivoli is a “wicked” old UNESCO town with so much character. (Wicked is my Bostonian word for amazing, authentic, awe- inspiriting, culturally awakening and just plain fun!)

A quiet walk through the timeless streets
of Tivoli

To my absolute delight, my Airbnb was located on Via Domenico Tani Square in the medieval historic center of the city of Tivoli, inside a 15^th century building. Honestly, I was so proud and mesmerized by the building. 15^th century.

My Home in Tivoli,
inside a 15th-century building.

How many people have walked these dark corridors and climbed these steep stairs? I absolutely loved going out each day and coming back “home” at the end of Mr Bear’s and my day. It was enchanting, to say the least.

The steep stone stairs leading to my apartment door.

One of the villas Claudia had suggested I visit was Villa Gregoriana and the Great Waterfall. Having read about this villa and its magnificent ancient channels, fishponds, series of gorges and cascades, including the Great Waterfall, Mr Bear and I had to go see for ourselves.

At Villa Gregoriana,
surrounded by cascading water and lush greenery

In 1826, a devastating flood occurred when the Aniene River again flowed over its bank and flooded the old section of Tivoli. Consequently, in 1832, Pope Gregory XVI initiated a massive hydraulic engineering project to divert the river. With the tunnels dug through Mount Catillo (Monte Catillo) redirecting the water, a dry riverbed and empty gorge was the result. In 1832, the Pope commissioned the land to be landscaped into a completely new public wilderness park. After an incredibly fast construction period, the park and its new Cascata Grande waterfall were officially inaugurated on October 7, 1835, and named "Villa Gregoriana" in his honor. After being neglected and heavily damaged during World War II, the Italian National Trust (FAI) took over the property in 2002. They meticulously cleaned the gorge, repaired 750 historic stone steps, and reopened the fully restored park in 2005. I think it’s important to note that UNESCO includes Villa Gregoriana on Italy’s Tentative World Heritage List because of the remarkable relationship between nature and human creativity over the centuries.

Going there, I had no idea, on a very hot May day, after I toured the villa, Mr Bear and I would be walking down into Hell’s Valley (Valle dell'Inferno). The descent follows a steep, winding path of over 700 stone steps carved directly into the cliffs of the canyon.

The waters of Cascata Grande cascade through the sunlit,
lush gorge at Villa Gregoriana, Tivoli, Italy

"Cascata Grande," an imposing waterfall standing over 120 meters (394 feet) tall, comes thundering down, while nestled amidst the valley’s rocks.

Once Mr Bear and I left Villa Gregoriana, we did our usual walk-about and discovered Lu-barittu 1940 on Vicolo Alessandro Olivieri 4. Ever notice groups of Italians sitting outside chatting the afternoon away?  Well, Mr Bear and I couldn’t resist stopping to say hello. Before long, we were laughing and visiting with these five sisters and two brothers. When they learned I had already visited Villa Gregoriana, they insisted I visit Villa d’Este and return the next day to tell them which villa I like best.

Mr Bear with new friends gathered together
on Vicolo Alessandro Olivieri 4, Tivoli, Italy

That’s one of the things I love about Italy – complete strangers often become new friends, even when there’s language barrier.

Villa d’Este is a completely different experience.

A grand view over the fountains
and gardens of Villa d'Este

Built in the 16^th century for Cardinal Ippolito II d’Este, Villa d’Este, Tivoli is one of Italy’s finest examples of Renaissance garden design. Its terraces, magnificent fountains, ornamental basins, and water features have earned it recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Unlike the dramatic cliffs, caves, and waterfalls of Villa Gregoriana, Villa d’Este offers completely different experiences (no descent into Hell’s Valleys or wondering if you’ve taken the wrong path). A true water garden, Villa d’Este, is one of the first giardini delle meraviglie, (gardens of wonder) served as a model for and had a decisive influence on the development of gardens in Europe.

Arriving at Villa d’Este, located in Piazza Trento, right next to Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, a medieval sacred landmark featuring a 5th-century foundation, and a 16th-century red-brick bell tower.

From the outside, the villa’s entrance is surprisingly modest. You would never guess that beyond its walls lies one of Italy’s true water gardens. Stepping through a 16th-century portal dating back to 1521, which features the coat of arms of Cardinal Bernardino Carvajal is overwhelming.  This villa offered Mr Bear and I a stroll of solitude on a nice afternoon. A time to sit, get a drink of water, listen to the waterfalls, and knowing I had 11 acres to wonder about.

Even Mr Bear needed a drink after
exploring Villa d'Etse

Mr Bear and I really enjoyed Villa Gregoriana but found Villa d’Este to be more embracing - a place that invited me to slow down and simply enjoy the gardens. Besides, I met Nama Kader who was visiting the villa with her family from Alexandria, Egypt. She now lives in Rome, and we happily stay in touch. 

Nama Kader sharing a moment with Mr Bear
at Villa d' Este, Tivoli, Italy

Traveling friends are such fun. We watched The Organ Fountian together. The fountain uses a clever water-and-air mechanism to play musical notes automatically without electricity.

The Organ Fountain at Villa D'Este, where 
water and air create music without electricily.

Leaving Villa d’Este, I stopped by Lu-barittu 1940 on Vicolo Alessandro Olivieri 4, letting the sisters know after visiting both Villas, Villa d’Este enchanted and warmed my traveling heart the most. I loved the photographs of Mr Bear just relaxing in the flower garden.

Mr Bear relaxing among the flowers after a full day
exploring Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Italy

While in Tivoli, I enjoyed trying the different restaurants, My two favorites were Cartiere - Banco e Cucina, where I enjoyed the tastiest Focaccia Bianca and Da Ugo le Pizzelle for another tasty Focaccia. I just had to compare the two. Both were delicious, but Cartiere’s bread was my favorite. And, of couse gelato – Lemon and Pistacchio in a cup.

Mr Bear joins me for Focaccia
at Cartiere - Banco e Cucina in Tivoli, Italy

Tivoli was magical. The small, narrow alleyways, Tivoli felt safe and protected due to its tight-knit historic layout, active local community presence, and the comforting enclosure of centuries-old stone architecture.

Sunset over the rooftops and trees of Tivoli, Italy

Tomorrow Mr Bear and I head to Rome. Another train, another destination. No, I wasn’t looking forward to seeing “Mr Bear’s Italian Adventure” come to an end.

Tropea to Tivoli: Surviving My Rome Train Transfer

 

A Rome Train Transfer

Mr Bear's Train Ride to Tivoli

Train trip to Tivoli was another adventure. I had booked my train from Tropea to Tivoli and completely understood I had to change from Frecciarossa 9658 in Rome Termini to Regional 19762 in Rome Tiburtina for train to Tivoli. The problem, I had no idea how long it would take, and where to go. The most stressful part was that even the conductor on my train from Tropea to Rome could not tell me where I needed to go. Once again, I was on my own trying to figure out another Italian train transfer. Very important FYI: Italian police and security are more than willing to help you out. I even had one escort me to Metro B!. 

For anyone making this trek, Rome Tiburtina is about a 23 minute ride by Metro B from Rome Termini, and depart about every 8 – 9 minutes. You could also take a taxi, bus, car, or even a bicycle for transportation to Tiburtina.  Once I got inside the station, discovered the mutiple levels, long corridors, and the distance between platforms,  I was thinking - "Oh, I am so lost. I'm going to miss my train." For my train, Regionale Veloce 4732, with unmanned information booths, it took almost 30 minutes to get to the track, only to discover at the last minute, there was a track change and I had to run to catch my train. Yes, it showed up on time but left 15 minutes late. 

Getting to Tiburtina was the Easy Part

Tiburtina is a new, very large modern complex, with limited signage. Hurrying with my luggage, finding not one active information desk, and simply finding the correct track became an adventure of its own. It took nearly thirty minutes from the time I entered the station until I finally reached the correct platform. When I finally boarded the train, I felt more relieved than excited.

Rome Tiburtina occupies about 18,000 square meters and is much more than a railway station. Inside are shops, restaurants, offices, VIP lounges, and even spaces for art exhibits.  While it serves as one of Rome's major transportation hubs, it is also designed as a place where people can meets, shop, and socialize.

Sun-Kissed Cliffs and Turquoise Waters: Traveling to Tropea, Italy

Mr Bear Waiting for Tropea Pick-up
Which Francesco?

Mr. Bear and my next stop was Tropea, but first I had to survive an Italian traveler's nightmare—a train strike. Not that I haven't dealt with Italian train strikes before. Usually, they last a couple of hours around noon. This one was different: 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. An entire day. My Airbnb in Tropea was booked for May 29, strike day, and I was still in Pizzo.

Not that I was eager to leave Pizzo, but fortunately my Tropea host, Francesco, volunteered to drive to Pizzo and pick me up. Coincidentally, both my Airbnb hosts were named Francesco, which made for a slightly confusing farewell. I said goodbye to Francesco while climbing into Francesco's car. Italian hospitality at its finest.

Tropea Coastline Panorama

One of the reasons I chose Tropea was that travel guides described it as an "undiscovered vacation spot." Arriving there, I wondered if those guides had been written twenty years ago. The streets were packed with visitors, and the crowds were far larger than I expected. Beautiful? Absolutely. Undiscovered? Not even close.

Tropea Beach from the Cliffs

Still, there was one thing I had been looking forward to for months: the beach. I had skipped the beach in Pizzo because I was saving that experience for Tropea's famous shoreline. As soon as I checked into my Airbnb, Mr. Bear and I headed straight for the sea.

Mr Bear at Tropea Beach

The beach was so crowded, Mr Bear took one look at the scene and refused to get out of his Eataly Beach Bag. After a brief rest and a swim in the Tyrrhenian Sea, we decided we’d had enough and went off on another adventure. 

Santuario di Santa Maria dell'Isola

This decision turned out to be the best one of the day. We discovered the Santuario di Santa Maria dell'Isola, the iconic medieval sanctuary perched atop a dramatic rocky outcrop overlooking the sea. Reached by a winding stone staircase carved into the cliffside, the sanctuary offers breathtaking views of the turquoise water and the coastline known as the "Coast of the Gods." Fortunately, I was wearing a beach cover-up, as proper attire was required for entry.

Belvedere Gardens

After visiting the sanctuary, I turned left and discovered the terraced Belvedere gardens clinging to the cliffs. 

Mr Bear Enjoying the Belvedere Gardens 

Filled with colorful flowers and peaceful pathways, the gardens offered a welcome escape from the crowds below. The views were spectacular, the gardens serene, and for a little while the noise and bustle of Tropea disappeared.

Unfortunately, the peace was temporary. As the afternoon wore on, Tropea became even more crowded, and Mr. Bear and I soon discovered that the beach was only the beginning.

Stone Stairway to the Coast

Leaving the beach, we walked back up the hill and found a terraced restaurant with a breathtaking view. Time for a Sarti Spritz and an Aperitivo, a pre-dinner ritual where buying a drink usually entitles you to complementary snacks like olives, nuts, and chips.

Aperitivo with a View

Now for dinner. Walking to the beach earlier in the day, I had discovered Trattoria Moderna Borgo Marino and decided to return that evening. The choice proved worthwhile. I ordered Spaghetti con Cozze—spaghetti with mussels. It was delicious.

Tropea Sunset

After dinner, Mr. Bear and I set off on our nightly promenade, our favorite ritual of wandering the streets while taking in the sights and sounds of a town. In Tropea the sounds were hard to miss. Conversations seemed to echo through every square and alley, and the crowds were even larger than earlier in the day.

Mr Bear Meets Francesco and Signora Cortese

Looking for a quieter path, we slipped down a narrow side street and stumbled upon another unexpected discovery: Casetta del Piccantino – Via Indipendenza. This small family-run shop, owned by Francesco Cortese, is rooted in the family’s butchery heritage and offers free tastings of regional Calabrian specialties, like ‘Nduja, a spicy, spreadable smoked pork salami from Calabria and Soppressata, a traditional Italian dry-cured pork sausage. Mr Bear and I had so much fun in this shop, Mr Bear had his photograph taken with Francesco and his beautiful wife. The best moment came when Signora Cortese learned I was writing a book about Mr Bear’s Italian Travels. She grabbed my hand and took me next door to her favorite book store Libreria il Pensiero Meridiano, and introduced me to the owner, Chiara Condò. A small independent bookstore, with a wonderful children’s section, has curated over 5,000 titles and features books in multiple languages. She asked if my book would be in Italian, and of course I replied, YES! Both Italian and English.

Mr Bear Visits the Bookshop

After this adventurous day, Mr. Bear and I headed back to the Airbnb. Tropea may not have been the quiet, undiscovered beach town described in the guidebooks, but it gave us something better—unexpected memories.

Evening in Tropea

For me, Tropea was not the crowded shoreline or the packed streets. It was the sanctuary above the sea, the family-run food shop, the welcoming bookstore, and the people who turned a one-night stop into a memorable visit. Sometimes it is not the destination itself that stays with you, but the kindness and generosity of the people you encounter along the way.

Local Artist Painting in Tropea

Tomorrow, Mr. Bear and I would be heading to Tivoli for the next chapter of our Italian adventure.

Pizzo by Happenstance – The Logistics of an Italian Hill Town

 

Pizzo by Happenstance – The Logistics of an Italian Hill Town

Pizzo is magical beyond belief, though my arrival there was entirely accidental.

While scouting accommodations near Tropea, a listing by a host named Francesco caught my eye, and I booked it on a whim. Ahead of my journey—a train ride routing from Messina—Francesco assured me the property was within walking distance of the station. A standard 20 to 25-minute walk, he claimed. 

What he neglected to mention, and what I completely failed to realize, is that Pizzo is a formidable hill town.

Looking out to sea from a high point in Pizzo.

Stepping off the train, I dutifully began the trek "up the hill." I managed only a few meters with my heavy gear before a local taxi driver pulled alongside the curb. He looked at me, sized up my situation, and insisted: "Get in, you can't walk with all you are carrying."

Operating on pure trust—and assuming my host had realized his logistical oversight and dispatched a driver—I got in. Off we went, scaling the incline.

🚖 The Local Connection

The driver navigated the steep streets until we pulled alongside a narrow alleyway. Right on cue, Francesco came running down the hill, shouting, "Sandy, you're here!" It was an incredibly warm, welcoming introduction to the town.

As it turned out, Francesco had not dispatched the driver. However, because this is a small Italian town, the two men were good friends. Francesco assured me that I couldn't have picked a safer or more reliable ride up the incline. It was a classic moment of local hospitality saving an unsuspecting traveler from a grueling uphill haul.

The Alleyway and Street Lantern

🛏️ Inside the Pizzo Apartment: Compact Efficiency

We walked up to the property, where a tiny door opened to reveal an extremely narrow, steep staircase leading to the second floor.

The Steep Staircase to the Flat

The apartment itself was a one-room flat. While it was undeniably small, it was designed with extreme efficiency. Every inch of space was utilized perfectly, and it even managed to include a washing machine—an absolute luxury when you are living out of a single suitcase for five weeks.

🧺 Living Like a Local: Italian Heaven

The layout featured a full kitchen and an outside clothesline—the quintessential Italian setup. Because the apartment was situated right along the alleyway, the sounds of locals walking by and chatting drifted inside. It was absolute Italian heaven.

Stairs, so creative in this 1300 AC town

Francesco is a scuba diver who has traveled the globe extensively, and the apartment served as a gallery for his adventures. The space was decorated with treasures from his travels, making it incredibly fun to spend time reading and looking through his original photographs.

🏰 Stepping Back to 1300 AC

Eventually, looking at indoor treasures wasn't enough; I had to explore where I actually was. Francesco directed me to walk further up the hill, promising I would find a small grocery store, a wine shop, and the town's historical highlights.

Mr Bear Shopping
- Profumi e Sapori Di Calabria

It was magical. Pizzo is a true seaport and commune in the province of Vibo Valentia, situated high on a steep cliff overlooking the Gulf of Saint Euphemia. The town has roots dating back to 1300 AC, evolving through the centuries from a community of Basilian monks to a defensive fort and a vibrant fishing village.

Francesco wanted to ensure I experienced the historical landmarks of his enchanted town, and the logistics required some unique local transit.

The spectacular sunset view right from my flat

🛺 Navigating the Cliffs: Chasing History and Tartufo

Because of Pizzo's steep, winding hills and narrow historic alleys, standard cars won't cut it. Instead, I rode in a Piaggio Ape Calessino. These open-air, vintage-style motorized tricycles act as both local taxis and guided tour vehicles. They are absolutely the best way to zip through the ancient streets.

My ride through the narrow historic alleys
 in a vintage Piaggio Ape Calessino.

Mr Bear and I had so much fun meeting such friendly, fun people. After we had gotten out of the vintage Piaggio and were walking arounf Piazza della Repubblica, Heidi Schumacher from Germany came over to us and asked to have a picture with Mr Bear. Of course we obliged.

Mr Bear and I making new friends with
Heidi from Germany in Pizzo.

My first stop was a dive into local culinary history. The famous Tartufo di Pizzo—a ball of hazelnut and chocolate gelato with a molten chocolate center, dusted in cocoa—was invented right here in 1952. It was created at Gelateria Dante (originally Bar Dante) by master ice cream maker Giuseppe "Don Pippo" De Maria. Missing this treat while in Pizzo is a travel crime. 

Mr. Bear eating the famous Tartufo at Gelateria Dante

Next, I headed to the awe-inspiring Chiesetta di Piedigrotta (the cave church). Built into the rock by Neapolitan shipwrecked sailors at the end of the 17th century, it was created as a monument of gratitude to God for saving them from a ferocious storm.

An inspiring, awestruck view inside the Chiesetta di Piedigrotta cave church,
hand-carved out of the stone.

aMy next adventure took me to the Castello Murat, originally known as the Aragonese Castle. This defensive fort holds a dark historical legacy: it is where Joachim Murat, the former King of Naples and brother-in-law of Napoleon, was imprisoned for several days before being sentenced to death.

The historic stone walls of Castello Murat

To follow the historical trail to its end, you have to visit St. George's Church (Chiesa di San Giorgio). Right in the center of the church's nave, a simple floor stone marks the Marshal's presumed burial spot.

The floor stone marking Joachim Murat's burial spot
inside St. George's Church.

Pizzo was such an incredibly fun place to visit. It is a town packed with history, local flavor, and genuine warmth. 

Listening to a local street musician play
 the saxophone in late afternoon.

As I checked out, I made a firm promise to Francesco: I will definitely come back.

A golden sunset over the water,
the perfect end to a magical day in Pizzo.

From Capo d’Orlando to the Tip of Sicily: A Day in Messina and Torre Faro

As an Amazon associate, I earn from qualifying purchase

A traditional Sicilian "feluca" swordfish fishing boat
docked near the massive steel transmission tower in Torre Faro

After leaving captivating Capo d’Orlando, I caught the train to Messina, Sicily’s gateway between the island and mainland Italy, thanking myself for not carrying more luggage than my Baggallini Sling Bag (ad), Baggallini Backpack (ad), and SwissGear Suitcase ((ad).

Arriving at Messina’s bus station, again I had to figure out how to get to my Airbnb. My directions said to take Bus 1 whose route goes towards Torre Faro, but get off at Via Consolare Pompea.

💡 Travel Tip: Double-check with your Airbnb host about whether you need the train, tram, or bus for your arrival. A location listed as 10 minutes from the train station could actually mean 10 minutes from the tram stop rather than the regional train station!

🏠 A Warm Sicilian Welcome

My Airbnb could not have been more perfect: it was located right across the street from the local bus stop on Via Consolare Pompea. Upon arrival, the host’s father patiently checked me in using a combination of Italian, gestures, and smiles, explaining how the security door operated, how the “dishwasher” worked, and the washer/dryer set-up.

When I accidentally locked myself out because the door closed so quickly, “Dad,” who lived in the upstairs apartment, immediately came down and got me back in. Not a word of English!! Welcome to Sicily – got to love it!!

⛲ The Storica Fontana di Paradiso

Due Becchi

Right along this coastal stretch of Via Consolare Pompea lies the Storica fontana di Paradiso. Known to locals as the fountain of the “Due Becchi” (Two Spouts), it is a fascinating historic landmark. It serves as a popular social hub for runners, walkers, and locals carrying large jugs to collect fresh water. Catching glimpses of this daily Sicilian routine right outside my door added such a rich layer of local color to the neighborhood.

Local Vegetable/Fruit Stand

A vibrant neighborhood fruit and vegetable stand displaying fresh Sicilian produce along Via Consolare Pompea.

Day Trip to Torre Faro

From Messina, figuring out the train schedule and my location, I took the local bus up to Torre Faro, located at the northeastern tip of Sicily. The route followed the beautiful coastline of the Strait of Messina, where Sicily and Calabria are separated by only a narrow stretch of water.

Forte degli Inglesi 

Right at the very edge of the cape, standing alongside the sandy shores, sits the historic Forte degli Inglesi (Fort of the English). Built by the British in the early 19th century to guard the strait against Napoleon's fleet, the sturdy stone fort contrasts beautifully against the wild coastal waters. Today, it has been wonderfully restored and houses the M.A.C.H.O. contemporary art museum.

Torre Faro / To the Fishermen / Fallen at Sea

Just a short walk away along the promenade, facing directly into the swirling currents of the sea, I stopped before the Monumento ai Pescatori Caduti in Torre Faro Dedicated to the local fishermen lost to the deep waters, the white stone sculpture swoops upward like a powerful, cresting wave frozen in time. The plaque placed firmly at its base reads: "Torre Faro / Ai Pescatori / Caduti in Mare / 23 Aprile 2008"—a solemn reminder of how closely tied Torre Faro's identity is to both the gifts and the dangers of the Strait.

Pylons of Messina

Just adjacent, dominating the entire landscape, was the massive steel transmission tower
rising high above the shoreline. Standing directly beneath it, I photographed the lattice structure disappearing into the bright Sicilian sky. The tower’s scale is difficult to appreciate until you are standing at its base looking straight up!

Torre Faro also offered excellent views across the strait toward mainland Italy. Ferries crossed regularly between Sicily and Calabria while fishing boats moved through the busy waters below.

Astronomical Clock

The Astronomical Clock

Before leaving Messina, I visited the Astronomical Clock beside the cathedral. The clock tower is one of the city’s best-known landmarks and draws visitors from around the world. Standing in the piazza, I appreciated both the craftsmanship and history behind this remarkable structure.

With Messina and Torre Faro explored, Mr Bear and I began preparing for the next stage of my journey—crossing the Strait of Messina and continuing on to Calabria.

Mr Bear heading to Calarbria
Next stop Pizzo

---

---