Squeezing Through Cefalù: A "Hobbit House," La Rocca, and a Hidden 1909 Cinema

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After the city life of Palermo, arriving in Cefalù felt like a relief with its slower Sicilian rhythm. Even so, I was initially overwhelmed by the sheer number of tourists; much like Taormina, the streets were filled with intense tourist energy.

What made Cefalù so special was staying in the coolest Airbnb,
which I affectionately nicknamed my “Hobbit House.” My host, Maria Marsala, invited me to join a walk with her two dogs, Zoe and Zeus, giving me a rare glimpse of everyday life beyond the crowded tourist paths. Later in my stay, we had dinner at one of her favorite restaurants, Il Normanno, where I enjoyed a wonderful, authentic Sicilian meal and Maria even introduced me to the owner. These are the kinds of special travel memories you just can't buy.

I knew I had to hike La Rocca di Cefalù, the rocky 268-meter-high (880 foot) promontory that towers majestically over the historic town. Located just a 15-minute walk from my Hobbit House, and 5 euros later, Mr. Bear and I set off. We were determined to discover an area rich in prehistoric history, including the Temple of Diana, a sacred megalithic structure constructed in the 5th or 4th century BC. Standing there, I couldn't help but chuckle thinking about us back in the United States celebrating our 250 years!

Just a bit of an FYI: Mr. Bear and I share a dreadful fear of heights. Keeping our eyes open during the climb was an absolute necessity, even if it felt a bit perilous at times. I was incredibly thankful I was wearing my Taos Star Sneakers—that canvas flexibility and solid arch support kept me steady on those steep, slippery rocks! The summit views were incredible, but then came the hard part—we had to go down! We were completely saved by two wonderful young women, Sara and Lucia, best friends since childhood who were traveling together. Their friendly encouragement helped Mr. Bear and me bravely navigate our way back down La Rocca. Sara and Lucia, thank you so much!

I love to wander, and guess what else I found? Cinema di Francesca, a beautiful cinema-theater that originally opened in 1909 on Cefalù's main street. Today, it serves as a museum, cinema, and theater. Over its century-long history, it has welcomed famous performers like Angelo Musco and Rosina Anselmi, while continuing to provide a venue for local comedies and variety shows. Mr. Bear and I took an Airbnb tour of Cefalù

Speaking of hidden gems, no one else seems to mention the town’s narrowest passageway, but our tour guide made sure we not only saw it but squeezed through! You can find it tucked away on Corso Ruggero, right next to West Coast Sports.

At night, the cross on top of La Rocca is beautifully illuminated and can be seen from throughout Cefalù. For the local community, it serves as an enduring symbol of faith overlooking the town. Special memories, indeed.

The Day of Three Trains, Lost Keys, and a BMW: My Sicilian ATM Saga

Capo d’Orlando – May 21

I have to write about my Palermo before I forget the absolute turmoil of situations that happened. Looking back, none of it was actually my fault, it is now a fresh day. I survived, and honestly? Now it’s just comical.

The absolute first time I ever used an ATM card was in Palermo, Sicily. Yes, on my vacation. First mistake: I should have tried it at home before I left the States, but I didn’t.

Walking down Via G. Carducci, I passed the Credem BancoMat. Thank goodness I had the presence of mind to take a picture of the location, because when I went to use the machine, it gave me a receipt—but absolutely no cash. With my limited Italian, I managed to explain what happened to a nice lady who arrived to use the machine after me. She tried it; it worked. A gentleman arrived next, we explained the situation, and his transaction worked, too. I tried a second time and, lucky me, it worked—but I was still out the money from my original transaction.

FYI Travel Tip: Never, ever use a foreign ATM at a bank on a Saturday or Sunday when the bank itself is closed.

I tried calling the support number on the machine. Lucky me, the recording was entirely in Italian! Returning to my Airbnb, I explained the mess to my host, Rose. She gave it a go, but since it was the weekend, she told me I’d have to wait until Monday.

The only problem? On Monday, I was scheduled to be in Cefalù.

I contacted my next host in Cefalù, Maria, and she was an absolute savior. She told me not to worry and that we’d figure it out when I arrived. True to her word, Maria contacted all the right people and got a resolution. The catch? I had to go back to the actual bank branch in Palermo to get my cash.

May 20 - the day I was supposed to be traveling straight to Capo d’Orlando. Instead, the crazy day started:

1. Boarded a train back to Palermo.

2. Arrived, then took another local train to get closer to the bank’s address.

3. Walked. And walked. It seemed to take forever to finally locate the bank.

4. Arrived at the bank. To their credit, they admitted there was a problem. However, they told me I had to come back at 3:00 PM after they opened the physical ATM to verify the cash count. They promised everything would be sorted out then.

5. Returned at 3:00 PM. After a mountain of paperwork, signatures, and a photo of my driver’s license, I finally got my money back!

6. Took the train back to Cefalù. Maria had graciously offered to meet me at the station with my suitcase (I had left it behind so I could navigate Palermo lightly). The only problem? Maria couldn’t find her car keys!

7. Walked back to the Airbnb, grabbed my suitcase and knapsack, and rushed back to the station for the 5:46 PM train to Capo d’Orlando. The train didn’t arrive.

8. Checked the schedule. The next train wasn’t until 6:26 PM. It gets funnier here because there were so many lovely, well-meaning people around me trying to help, but no one spoke English. I tried using Google Translate, but it just wasn’t doing the trick.

9. So, I sat and waited.

10. A train finally arrived right on time. The right time, but the wrong train! It was a “Sleeper Comfort” train with no accommodation for sitting passengers.

11. The next train wasn’t scheduled for another hour, at 7:26 PM. I waited. Remember, this is Italy—the train actually rolled in at 7:50 PM.

12. I messaged my host in Capo d’Orlando, whom I thought was a woman. This was the same host who had agreed to pick me up at the station.

13. By this point, I had been at this transit game all day long.

14. Exhausted, disheveled, and probably looked like a total ragamuffin standing on the platform with my bags.

And then? The most gorgeous Italian man stepped out of his sleek BMW to pick me up and whisk me away to my Airbnb right on the beach.

After all that, life is good again!

Ortigia: Where Time Takes a Detour

 

After the energy of Catania, Ortigia felt like a different world. My Airbnb was tucked away in what seemed like an ancient corner alley, just steps away from Fonte Aretusa (Fountain Arethusa), the reservoir famous in legends and literature for its fresh water. 

From my second-floor balcony, complete with a dependable place to hang for my laundry, I could look down on five restaurants where locals and tourists gathered in the late evening for lively meals and conversation. 

This quickly became a relaxing heaven for me. My morning began with a much-anticipated pistachio cream filled croissant and espresso. Evening were spent on my balcony watching life unfold, below while sipping my Sicilian aaperitivo). Oh, life is so good!

One afternoon, exploring Ortigia’s historical center near Piazza Duomo, I discovered the gallery of Danilo Ricciardi. Words cannot adequately describe the contemporary art I encountered or the warmth and openness of the artist himself. A warm hug made the visit even more memorable.

Continuing my stroll on the extremely narrow, labyrinthine streets, many times having to literally jump out of the way of the overly large SUVs, I discovered the Archimede & Leonardo da Vinci Museum. This museum highlights the remarkable connections between the ideas of Archimedes (214 -230 BC) and the inventions of Leonardo da Vinci (1452 -1519 AC).  Featuring many hands-on replica wooden models of da Vinci’s inventions alongside those of the ancient mathematician Archimedes’ drawings and ideas, this museum fascinated Mr Bear and me.

Around the corner was my goal for the day: the Museo of Pupi, tucked away on a small street in the old Jewish quarter of Guidecca. I love puppetry and needed to see, firsthand the incredible collection of handcrafted marionettes, or "pupi." What made the visit even more special was “teatro dei pupi," an afternoon performance of “Chiuso la Domemica.” Magical, even if it was all in Italian – made my day special.

Still wandering about, I discovered a treasure trove of unique shops on Via Roma, Ortigia. At Fikissima, where each handcrafted item contains the history, colors, and warmth of Sicily, the owner warmly welcomed Mr Bear and me. After a photograph together and a connecting on Instagram, I left with birthday gifts and another fond memory of Ortigia. Needing something to eat I ventured on to Ortigia Fish Bar for their ultra-fresh and tasty seafood dishes. How could I go wrong?

Sadly, knowing tomorrow I was leaving, but heading to Palermo, I needed directions. Off to the Ortigia Servizio Turistico Regionale (STR) (Regional Tourist Office) where I discovered the friendliest people, filled with so much helpful information. I was happily informed, “Sandy, you and Mr Bear will take the bus to Palermo.” So, the bus it was. 

Leaving Ortigia behind, Mr Bear claimed the window seat for the journey to  Palermo. The comfortable three-hour ride crossed the heart of Sicily, revealing snow-covered Mt Etna, rolling green hills, brilliant yellow spring wildflowers, and views that made the miles pass unnoticed. 

It was relaxing to reflect on all Ortigia had offered, and all the friends and  experiences Mr Bear and I have shared since leaving my cousin in Rome. Onward, Mr Bear and I go!  I highly recommend this is the way to cross Sicily.

Italian Fashion: Individuality, not Conformity

Before this trip to Italy, which I have visited fifteen separate times, I watched a few videos explaining what Italians wear. Linen in summer, leather shoes, neutral colors, simple jewelry, and carefully coordinated outfits. Some even suggested that tourists should avoid sneakers, logos on t-shirts, bright colors, or casual clothing.

After my recent month walking the streets of Rome, Catania, Ortigia, Palermo, Cefalù, Capo d' Orlando, Messina, Pizzo, Tropea and Tivoli. I found a quite different reality.

Italians dress much like the rest of us: according to their lifestyle, the weather, comfort, and personal taste. I observed white sneakers everywhere. Jeans. Puffer jackets. Long skirts. Colorful coats. Business attire. Casual attire. Even t-shirts with logos on both men and women. And occasionally a fabulous pair of boots that made a statement all their own.

As a former Fashion Design professor, I find the influencer’s version of Italian fashion amusing. Real fashion has never been about following rules; it is fashion that reflects one’s personality, mood, lifestyle, weather, comfort, age, and confidence.

What struck me most was not a particular style, but the individuality. The women I photographed were not models, influencers, or fashion bloggers. These women were simply going about their day - meeting friends, shopping, commuting, enjoying a coffee, or taking an evening stroll.

The greatest lesson about so-called Italian fashion is not that it does not exist, but it is often portrayed as something far more standardized than it really is. It has nothing to do with brands, colors, or trends. The women and men, who looked the most stylish were the ones who seemed comfortable being themselves.

My observation was that Sicily and Italy are filled with individuality rather than conformity

 For you, just travel with what you are comfortable wearing, relax, observe, and enjoy beautiful Italy as yourself.

A Stranger on The Bench

Looking back, I realize my Italian adventure was not defined by perfect travel days. Instead, it was a series of unexpected challenges, each followed by an equally unexpected solution.

My trip began in Rome with hardly any hot water at my first Airbnb. Then came an ATM that refused to dispense my requested Euros, an eSim that did not work as advertised, a train strike, and not one but two major national holidays when it seemed half the country had decided to take the day off.

Just when I thought I had mastered Italy's transportation system, I discovered that "walking distance from the train station" meant something entirely different to my Airbnb hosts that it did to me. Double/triple check which train station they are referencing.

*Then There Was The Overnight Train To Sicily*

My cousin had carefully made sure I boarded the correct train in Rome, so I settled into my compartment confident the rest of the journey would be easy.

Having never traveled on a sleeper train before, I had read the “what’s included” for this train adventure. The description advertised dinner, refreshments, a midnight snack, and breakfast. I was so looking forward to this experience. Instead, I found myself in a small cabin with little explanation and a conductor who seemed annoyed by my questions. It quickly became apparent that this part of my journey was not going to match my expectations. I was on my own.

In the incredibly early morning hours, the train crossed the Strait of Messina. No one had explained that passengers continuing to Catania would need to transfer to another train. I sat quietly in my compartment, expecting the journey to continue as planned.

When I stepped into the hallway, I saw the rude conductor at the opposite end of the train car and was surprised when he yelled at me. "Get off this train, NOW!"

Completely confused, I grabbed Mr Bear, my knapsack, small suitcase, and stepped onto the platform. Within minutes the train was gone, leaving me standing in a terminal I had never seen before, wondering where and what to do next.

Walking into the terminal unsure of what to do next, I spotted a gentleman sitting on the one and only bench. Discovering he spoke English, I explained my situation. Surprisingly, he had overslept on the train and missed the Catania connection as well. What helped most was that he was from Catania and agreed to assist me in finding the address of my Airbnb. Again, not a 10-minute walk from the train station.

Only after he knew I had arrived safely to my building, did we sit and have an espresso. He spoke warmly of his city and insisted I try Pasta alla Norma and local Etna Rosso wine.

Looking back, my first memory of Sicily is not Mt Etna, the fish market, or the beautiful architecture. It is the warmhearted kindness of a stranger who welcomed a confused traveler and made sure she arrived safely. I encountered this same warmheartedness throughout my 38 days in Sicily. The Sicilian people are so compassionate, generous, and always willing to help.

 

I'm in Italy - What Could Go Wrong?

 

Rome was my first stop on my 38-day Italian adventure. Upon arrival in Trastevere, I discovered the Airbnb was in Monteverde, a section of Rome about 35 minutes by Tram 8 from the neighborhood I had originally hoped to stay. Travel plans rarely go exactly as expected.

The accommodation turned out to be a two-bedroom flat for a graduate student in middle of exam week, with his father visiting. The list mentioned a kitchen, which was not available for guest use. I also shared the bathroom with host and his father; consequently, hot water was limited throughout my stay. With worn towels and limited promised amenities, I found myself wondering why this graduate student had chosen to make this room available during exam week while his father was visiting.

I will give the host credit for trying to help with my eSim issue. Although we made several attempts, we were never able to get it to work.

The much-advertised Vodafone eSim did not work as advertised. Supposedly, once my plane landed and I walked outside, the eSim would automatically connect. Not so. Despite following all the directions there was no connection, no map, no internet. There was absolutely no way to contact my cousin or the Airbnb I had booked for the next three nights.

Fortunately, my Spectrum service, roaming, and WhatsApp eventually helped bridge the gap. From the FCO airport, the regional train carried me to the Travestere train station. With directions pieced together in broken English, local police were able to figure out where I was headed, and I was on my way. After stumbling off the suggested Tram 8 stop and following what I interpreted as directions to the “10-minute walk from train”, the host met me at the end of the alley and walked me to his Airbnb.

Exhausted, I climbed into bed knowing I had a “Taste Secret Roman Flavors and Hidden Treasures” tour scheduled at 11am the next morning. Did not happen! I woke up at 11am and missed my first adventure.

FYI – Do not book a morning adventure the day after you arrive in Italy, especially if your trip begins with transportation problems, a failed eSim, and an unexpected Airbnb surprise.

Missing the “Tasting” turned out for the best. After much needed sleep, Mr Bear and I took Tram 8 into Trastevere to begin his Italian adventure. Having been to Rome before, I knew what to expect. However, for Mr Bear this was his first Rome adventure. Together we discovered the Museo di Rome, Largo di Torre Argentina, walked through Campo de Fiori (not what I remembered), and made our way to Pantheon for our last-minute scheduled tour. What fun we had!

Before our Pantheon tour started, we stopped at DolceRotonda for an espresso and the most delicious croissant filled with a tangy lemon cream. A must-try treat!!

Our Pantheon guide, Jessica Coppola of JC Tour Guide,was wonderful, bringing the history, architecture, and myths of this remarkable building to life. When she met Mr Bear and realized our stay in Rome was short, she signed us up for her son’s Golf Cart Tour - Rome so Mr Bear could have a quick city tour. It was just such fun! We stopped at all the “must see while in Rome” without walking miles!!

*My cousin Edda and Delightful Husband, Save the Day*

Edda picked me up at my Airbnb and off we went to get Massimo and attend his friend’s May Day Celebration. But first, the TIM phone shop to get a real SIM chip for my phone!! How can such a small item save my vacation? I am thrilled: my phone works and I have an Italian phone number!! Life is Good! No ESim for me!

Off to the celebration. This is a real, honest to goodness Italian feast, and hardly anyone spoke English! Everyone was cooking, laughing, eating, dancing – so much food!

What a wonderful send off for me. Everyone had their opinions “you must see this, do not waste time on this, see the clock in Messina, too many tourists in Taormina. On and on it went all-in good-hearted fun, and me absorbing it all, like I am in an Italian movie.

The night is over. We head back to Rome, for tomorrow I will spend the day with Edda, Massimo, and her dad, before Edda takes me to the train. It was sad to leave them, but I was so excited finally be on my way. What could go wrong?

The four of us had such a wonderful day sharing memories of the many times I have visited Italy, and when Edda would visit me in Boston. How her mom, Aunt Margaritte, tried to teach me a few Italian dishes, and we would laugh so hard because we did not have a clue what each other was saying. Memories!!

An Adventures Spirit

An Adventurous Spirit (and a Stubborn ATM) in Palermo

May 15, 2026

Every seasoned traveler knows that a flawless itinerary is just a theory until it hits the pavement. Today was meant to be my completely free, unscheduled day to let my adventurous spirit wander through Palermo.

I checked off my morning packing list: phone charged, both external hard drives ready to hold the day’s photos, water, sunglasses, passport, and, of course, my reliable co-pilot, Mr. Bear.

I was ready to conquer the day. There was just one tiny errand to run first: stopping at a bank ATM.

Here is a very important travel FYI for anyone reading: Even if your bank guarantees your card will work abroad, test it before you leave the country!

I put my card in, entered my PIN, and… rejected. Wrong PIN. After a couple of attempts, the machine froze me out. Because of the six-hour time difference back to the United States, I couldn’t even call my bank until 2:00 PM local time. When I finally did, we hit a classic modern travel paradox: they couldn’t verify my identity because they couldn’t send a security text code to my Italian phone number. A quick trip to the local TIM store to check my phone settings didn’t solve it either.

My backup plan for tomorrow was to try three specific PIN variations. If that fails, I’ll swap my physical USA SIM card back into the phone just to catch the bank’s security text. FYI - didn't work.

It was a deeply discouraging start to the morning, but thankfully, credit cards are widely accepted here. I refused to let a piece of plastic ruin my day. I needed to regroup, so I headed straight for Piazza Giuseppe—the familiar starting point of yesterday’s tour—and treated Mr. Bear and I to a crisp, sweet cannolo and a hot espresso

Stress handled. Adventure resumed.

The Scars of Basilica della Magione

Heading out with a renewed perspective, I stumbled upon the Basilica della Magione in the historic Kalsa district. Built in the 12th century for cloistered monks, it is the second oldest church in Palermo and a stunning example of Sicilian Romanesque architecture, bearing heavy Norman influences.

Standing outside, I noticed deep pockmarks scarring the ancient stone exterior. These aren’t the natural weathering of age. The Kalsa district was heavily bombed during World War II, and Palermo has intentionally left these structural wounds exposed. It is a moving, silent monument to the city’s resilience.

Continuing my walk toward my original destination Orto Botanico, I found myself constantly slowed down by the local storefronts—specifically, the fabric shops.

While independent fabric stores are a dying breed in the United States, they are thriving here. A Sicilian seamstress still has an incredible wealth of specialty shops to choose from, keeping the artisan tradition of custom tailoring very much alive. As a former fashion design professor, and seamstress, I could easily have spent the entire afternoon browsing buttons, trims and fabric instead of reaching the botanical garden.

I finally made it to the Orto Botanico di Palermo (the Botanical Garden of Palermo). If you come here expecting manicured beds of bright, glorious flowers, you will be surprised. Founded in 1779 as part of the University of Palermo, this is a massive scientific and educational institution.

It acts as a living museum, housing over 12,000 different plant species and half a million dried specimens used for global botanical research. The undisputed rulers of the garden are the colossal Ficus macrophylla (Strangler Figs). Their massive trunks and sweeping curtains of aerial roots drop down to the earth like columns, making you feel wondefully small standing beneath them.

Goethe’s View at La Cala Palermo

My final stop of the afternoon was La Cala, Palermo’s ancient harbor. This crescent-shaped waterfront dates all the way back to Phoenician times, though today it has been beautifully redeveloped into a lively marina where historic maritime heritage meets modern leisure yachts.

Looking out across the water from the harbor, you are treated to a spectacular view of a massive limestone mountain rising abruptly out of the Tyrrhenian Sea.

“The most beautiful promontory in the world.”

— Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, ‘Italian Journey’ (1787)

The German poet and novelist was completely captivated by this exact view of Monte Pellegrino during his travels through Sicily, and standing there today, it isn’t hard to see why its dramatic silhouette defines the entire coastline.

 

Walking back to my Airbnb, I noticed the Toys Con Te store filled with stuffed animal and Pooh Bears. Mr Bear wanted to meet new friends.

By the time I finally turned back toward my Airbnb, my fitness tracker read 18,100 steps—roughly 8.5 miles of walking. My feet were tired, and the ATM situation would still waiting for me tomorrow, but today proved that an adventurous spirit and a good pastry can triumph over any travel hiccup. 

Back at my Airbnb, my host Rose introduced herself to Mr Bear. The ATM could wait until Monday.