A Rome Train Transfer — Mr Bear's Train Ride to Tivoli

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A Rome Train Transfer — Mr Bear's Train Ride to Tivoli

Mr Bear happily resting on the tray table with a fresh apricot snack
before our chaotic dash across the tracks!

Train trip to Tivoli was another adventure. I had booked my train from Tropea to Tivoli and completely understood I had to change from Frecciarossa 9658 in Rome Termini to Regional 19762 in Rome Tiburtina for train to Tivoli. The problem, I had no idea how long it would take, and where to go. The most stressful part was that even the conductor on my train from Tropea to Rome could not tell me where I needed to go. Once again, I was on my own trying to figure out another Italian train transfer. Very important FYI: Italian police and security are more than willing to help you out. I even had one escort me to Metro B!. 

For anyone making this trek, Rome Tiburtina is about a 23 minute ride by Metro B from Rome Termini, and depart about every 8 – 9 minutes. You could also take a taxi, bus, car, or even a bicycle for transportation to Tiburtina.  Once I got inside the station, discovered the mutiple levels, long corridors, and the distance between platforms,  I was thinking - "Oh, I am so lost. I'm going to miss my train." For my train, Regionale Veloce 4732, with unmanned information booths, it took almost 30 minutes to get to the track, only to discover at the last minute, there was a track change and I had to run to catch my train. Yes, it showed up on time but left 15 minutes late. 

Getting to Tiburtina was the Easy Part

Tiburtina is a new, very large modern complex, with limited signage. Hurrying with my luggage, finding not one active information desk, and simply finding the correct track became an adventure of its own. It took nearly thirty minutes from the time I entered the station until I finally reached the correct platform. When I finally boarded the train, I felt more relieved than excited.

Rome Tiburtina occupies about 18,000 square meters and is much more than a railway station. Inside are shops, restaurants, offices, VIP lounges, and even spaces for art exhibits.  While it serves as one of Rome's major transportation hubs, it is also designed as a place where people can meets, shop, and socialize.

From Capo d’Orlando to the Tip of Sicily: A Day in Messina and Torre Faro

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A traditional Sicilian "feluca" swordfish fishing boat
docked near the massive steel transmission tower in Torre Faro

After leaving captivating Capo d’Orlando, I caught the train to Messina, Sicily’s gateway between the island and mainland Italy, thanking myself for not carrying more luggage than my Baggallini Sling Bag (#ad), Baggallini Backpack (#ad), and SwissGear Suitcase (#ad).

Arriving at Messina’s bus station, again I had to figure out how to get to my Airbnb. My directions said to take Bus 1 whose route goes towards Torre Faro, but get off at Via Consolare Pompea.

💡 Travel Tip: Double-check with your Airbnb host about whether you need the train, tram, or bus for your arrival. A location listed as 10 minutes from the train station could actually mean 10 minutes from the tram stop rather than the regional train station!

🏠 A Warm Sicilian Welcome

My Airbnb could not have been more perfect: it was located right across the street from the local bus stop on Via Consolare Pompea. Upon arrival, the host’s father patiently checked me in using a combination of Italian, gestures, and smiles, explaining how the security door operated, how the “dishwasher” worked, and the washer/dryer set-up.

When I accidentally locked myself out because the door closed so quickly, “Dad,” who lived in the upstairs apartment, immediately came down and got me back in. Not a word of English!! Welcome to Sicily – got to love it!!

⛲ The Storica Fontana di Paradiso

Storica Fontana di Paradiso - Due Becchi

Right along this coastal stretch of Via Consolare Pompea lies the Storica fontana di Paradiso. Known to locals as the fountain of the “Due Becchi” (Two Spouts), it is a fascinating historic landmark. It serves as a popular social hub for runners, walkers, and locals carrying large jugs to collect fresh water. Catching glimpses of this daily Sicilian routine right outside my door added such a rich layer of local color to the neighborhood.

Local Vegetable & Fruit Stand

Day Trip to Torre Faro

From Messina, figuring out the train schedule and my location, I took the local bus up to Torre Faro, located at the northeastern tip of Sicily. The route followed the beautiful coastline of the Strait of Messina, where Sicily and Calabria are separated by only a narrow stretch of water.

Forte degli Inglesi 

Right at the very edge of the cape, standing alongside the sandy shores, sits the historic Forte degli Inglesi (Fort of the English). Built by the British in the early 19th century to guard the strait against Napoleon's fleet, the sturdy stone fort contrasts beautifully against the wild coastal waters. Today, it has been wonderfully restored and houses the M.A.C.H.O. contemporary art museum.

Torre Faro / To the Fishermen / Fallen at Sea

Just a short walk away along the promenade, facing directly into the swirling currents of the sea, I stopped before the Monumento ai Pescatori Caduti in Torre Faro Dedicated to the local fishermen lost to the deep waters, the white stone sculpture swoops upward like a powerful, cresting wave frozen in time. The plaque placed firmly at its base reads: "Torre Faro / Ai Pescatori / Caduti in Mare / 23 Aprile 2008"—a solemn reminder of how closely tied Torre Faro's identity is to both the gifts and the dangers of the Strait.

Pylons of Messina

Just adjacent, dominating the entire landscape, was the massive steel transmission tower
rising high above the shoreline. Standing directly beneath it, I photographed the lattice structure disappearing into the bright Sicilian sky. The tower’s scale is difficult to appreciate until you are standing at its base looking straight up!

The Telepass Ferry crossing the Strait

Torre Faro also offered excellent views across the strait toward mainland Italy. Ferries crossed regularly between Sicily and Calabria while fishing boats moved through the busy waters below.

Sandy at the Astronomical Clock

The Astronomical Clock

Before leaving Messina, I visited the Astronomical Clock beside the cathedral. The clock tower is one of the city’s best-known landmarks and draws visitors from around the world. Standing in the piazza, I appreciated both the craftsmanship and history behind this remarkable structure.

With Messina and Torre Faro explored, Mr Bear and I began preparing for the next stage of my journey—crossing the Strait of Messina and continuing on to Calabria.

Mr Bear heading to Calabria. Next stop Pizzo!

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A Stranger on The Bench — Messina, Italy

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A Stranger on The Bench — Messina, Italy

Looking back, I realize my Italian adventure was not defined by perfect travel days. Instead, it was a series of unexpected challenges, each followed by an equally unexpected solution.

My trip began in Rome with hardly any hot water at my first Airbnb. Then came an ATM that refused to dispense my requested Euros, an eSim that did not work as advertised, a train strike, and not one but two major national holidays when it seemed half the country had decided to take the day off.

Walking down Corso Sicilia toward Piazza Borsellino and Via Alcala
—thankfully with my Catania guardian angel guiding the way!

Just when I thought I had mastered Italy's transportation system, I discovered that "walking distance from the train station" meant something entirely different to my Airbnb hosts than it did to me. Double/triple check which train station they are referencing.

*Then There Was The Overnight Train To Sicily*

My cousin had carefully made sure I boarded the correct train in Rome, so I settled into my compartment confident the rest of the journey would be easy.

My cozy little sleeper compartment before the rude conductor
yelled at me to get off the train!

Having never traveled on a sleeper train before, I had read the “what’s included” for this train adventure. The description advertised dinner, refreshments, a midnight snack, and breakfast. I was so looking forward to this experience. Instead, I found myself in a small cabin with little explanation and a conductor who seemed annoyed by my questions. It quickly became apparent that this part of my journey was not going to match my expectations. I was on my own.

In the incredibly early morning hours, the train crossed the Strait of Messina. No one had explained that passengers continuing to Catania would need to transfer to another train. I sat quietly in my compartment, expecting the journey to continue as planned.

Mr Bear looking completely unfazed and travel-ready on the sleeper train bed
 before our unexpected platform eviction.

When I stepped into the hallway, I saw the rude conductor at the opposite end of the train car and was surprised when he yelled at me. "Get off this train, NOW!"

Completely confused, I grabbed Mr Bear, my knapsack, small suitcase, and stepped onto the platform. Within minutes the train was gone, leaving me standing in a terminal I had never seen before, wondering where and what to do next.

Walking into the terminal unsure of what to do next, I spotted a gentleman sitting on the one and only bench. Discovering he spoke English, I explained my situation. Surprisingly, he had overslept on the train and missed the Catania connection as well. What helped most was that he was from Catania and agreed to assist me in finding the address of my Airbnb. Again, not a 10-minute walk from the train station.

Mr Bear eagerly waiting to dive into our first
authentic dish of Pasta alla Norma at Spritzeria in Catania!

Only after he knew I had arrived safely to my building, did we sit and have an espresso. He spoke warmly of his city and insisted I try Pasta alla Norma and local Etna Rosso wine.

Looking back, my first memory of Sicily is not Mt Etna, the fish market, or the beautiful architecture. It is the warmhearted kindness of a stranger who welcomed a confused traveler and made sure she arrived safely. I encountered this same warmheartedness throughout my 38 days in Sicily. The Sicilian people are so compassionate, generous, and always willing to help.

 

I'm in Italy — What Could Go Wrong? I'm in Rome! (The Honest eSim Card Scam)

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I'm in Italy - What Could Go Wrong? I'm in Rome!

Charming cobblestone streets and local shops
near Campo de Fiori Rome, Italy

Rome was my first stop on my 38-day Italian adventure. Upon landing - phone kaput! The much-advertised Vodafone eSim did not work as advertised. Supposedly, once my plane landed and I walked outside, the eSim would automatically connect. Not so. Despite following all the directions there was no connection, no map, no internet. There was absolutely no way to contact my cousin or the Airbnb I had booked for the next three nights. Fortunately, my Spectrum service, roaming, and WhatsApp eventually helped bridge the gap intermittenly.

From the FCO airport, the regional train carried me to the Travestere train station. Arriving in Trastevere, I discovered the Airbnb was in Monteverde, a section of Rome about 35 minutes by Tram 8 from the neighborhood I had originally hoped to stay. Travel plans rarely go exactly as expected.

Italian State Polizia officers who
helped with transit directions in Rome, Italy

With directions pieced together in broken English, local police were able to figure out where I was headed, and I was on my way. After stumbling off the suggested Tram 8 stop and following what I interpreted as directions to the “10-minute walk from train” and sending a WhatsApp to my host, he  met me at the end of the alley and walked me to his Airbnb.

FYI - Always ask which train, because a train could be local tram, and exact directions. Not just how many walking minutes from train. His Airbnb mentioned Travestere, not Monteverde.

The accommodation turned out to be a two-bedroom flat for a graduate student in middle of exam week, with his father visiting. The list mentioned a kitchen, which was not available for guest use. I also shared the bathroom with host and his father; consequently, hot water was limited throughout my stay. With worn towels and limited promised amenities, I found myself wondering why this graduate student had chosen to make this room available during exam week while his father was visiting.

I will give the host credit for trying to help with my eSim issue. Although we made several attempts, we were never able to get it to work.

Exhausted, I climbed into bed knowing I had a “Taste Secret Roman Flavors and Hidden Treasures” tour scheduled at 11am the next morning. Did not happen! I woke up at 11am and missed my first adventure.

FYI – Do not book a morning adventure the day after you arrive in Italy, especially if your trip begins with transportation problems, a failed eSim, and an unexpected Airbnb surprise.

Missing the “Tasting” turned out for the best. After much needed sleep, Mr Bear and I took Tram 8 into Trastevere to begin his Italian adventure. Having been to Rome before, I knew what to expect. However, for Mr Bear this was his first Rome adventure.

 

Grand marble staircase and ancient architecture
inside the Museo di Roma in Rome, Italy

Together we discovered the Museo di Rome, Largo di Torre Argentina, walked through Campo de Fiori (not what I remembered), and made our way to Pantheon for our last-minute scheduled tour. What fun we had!

Mr Bear sharing his Lemon Crossiant Rome, Italy

Before our Pantheon tour started, we stopped at DolceRotonda for an espresso and the most delicious croissant filled with a tangy lemon cream. A must-try treat!!

Tour guide Jessica Coppola holding Mr Bear inside
the historic Pantheon in Rome, Italy

Our Pantheon guide, Jessica Coppola of JC Tour Guide,was wonderful, bringing the history, architecture, and myths of this remarkable building to life. When she met Mr Bear and realized our stay in Rome was short, she signed us up for her son’s Golf Cart Tour - Rome so Mr Bear could have a quick city tour. It was just such fun! We stopped at all the “must see while in Rome” without walking miles!!

My cousin Edda and her wonderful husband - "Save the Day"

Sandy with cousins Edda and Massimo fixing phone
issues at a TIM shop in  Rome Italy

Edda picked me up at my Airbnb and off we went to find Massimo and attend his friend’s May Day Celebration. But first, the TIM phone shop to get a real SIM chip for my phone!! How can such a small item save my vacation? I am thrilled: my phone works and I have an Italian phone number!! Life is Good! No eSim for me!

Off to the celebration. This is a real, honest to goodness Italian feast, and hardly anyone spoke English! Everyone was cooking, laughing, eating, dancing – so much food!

An authentic Italian May Day food celebration
and feast with family in Rome, Italy

What a wonderful send off for me. Everyone had their opinions “you must see this, do not waste time on this, see the clock in Messina, too many tourists in Taormina. On and on it went all-in good-hearted fun, and me absorbing it all, like I am in an Italian movie.

The night is over. We head back to Rome, for tomorrow I will spend the day with Edda, Massimo, and her dad, before Edda takes me to the train. It was sad to leave them, but I was so excited finally be on my way. What could go wrong?

The four of us had such a wonderful day sharing memories of the many times I have visited Italy, and when Edda would visit me in Boston. How her mom, Aunt Margaritte, tried to teach me a few Italian dishes, and we would laugh so hard because we did not have a clue what each other was saying. Memories!!

Sandy with cousins Edda and Massimo (in back getting electric for car)
and Dr. Parisella Cisterna, Italy