Rome: The Final 24 Hours of Mr Bear's and My Italian Adventure

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One last quiet night
before leaving Tivoli for Rome

On June 2, 2026, I left Tivoli, Italy, by train for Rome, where I would catch my flight home to the United States the next day. I felt deeply sad to leave after experiencing such meaningful experiences, new friends, and discovering parts of Italy I had only read and heard about. Sicily will always hold a place in my heart, and I cannot wait to return.

Even though the Rome-to-Messina train was not the luxury car I thought I purchased, and the thermal pools weren’t accessible because they weren’t actually in the town of Tivoli, my experiences cannot be erased.

As arranged Claudia and her daughter picked me up and took me to the Tivoli train station. I was heading back to Rome, but, oh, no, Not Rome Termini, but Rome Tiburtina again. Fortunately, my transfer was within the same platform area, and I continued toward my final Rome Airbnb.

I have to laugh. I think my entire month involved Italian holidays and a train strike. Labor Day, May 1, Republic Day June 2, and the strike May 29. And June 2 is a National Holiday; nothing has to be open.

When I arrived at the station near my Airbnb, nostalgia swept over me. I had been here before. Remember my first day in Rome without internet – and Tram 8?  As I began the uphill trek toward the Airbnb, the memories came back. I had walked this same hill three years earlier and stayed in the same fifth-floor walk-up-no elevator, but with direct access to FCO without having to travel through Rome Termini.

Understanding that most restaurants and shops were closed. It's a holiday. I was determined, with only vague memories of the area, Mr Bear and I took off looking for a grocery and, hopefully, a restaurant.

One last taste of Italy
at Tutto Qua before heading home.

Lady Luck was with me. Mr Bear and I discovered Tutto Qua on a side street in Monteverde, where I enjoyed the most delicious Saffron Cavatelli Pasta. What a rewarding gastronomic send-off before our departure.

My finale taste of Italy - Saffron Cavatelli Pasta
at Tutto Qua, Monteverde, Rome, Italy.

My flight from FCO departed at 1:10. Knowing I wanted to arrive at airport four hours prior to flight, and with check out at 10:00am, Mr Bear and I headed for the regional train with direct service to FCO.

Mr Bear looks through photographs of his
Italian adventure while waiting in FCO.

We had plenty of time at the airport. The perfect place to people-watch and reminisce.  I honestly believe, and have told many of my friends, that one of the reasons this trip was so much fun and so rewarding, I shared it with Mr Bear. He was my conversation starter. Who is Mr Bear?

Mr Bear takes one last look at Italy
as we begin our journey home.

When my mom was sick, I gave her a teddy bear. After she passed away, I gathered up the bear, brought him home, and named him Mr Bear. He travels everywhere with me, but this was one of the first trips when he truly ventured outside of the hotel.

 

God Bless … Onward to our next adventure. Stay tuned for our book –

Mr Bear’s Italian Adventures, printed in English and Italian.

From Capo d’Orlando to the Tip of Sicily: A Day in Messina and Torre Faro

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A traditional Sicilian "feluca" swordfish fishing boat
docked near the massive steel transmission tower in Torre Faro

After leaving captivating Capo d’Orlando, I caught the train to Messina, Sicily’s gateway between the island and mainland Italy, thanking myself for not carrying more luggage than my Baggallini Sling Bag (#ad), Baggallini Backpack (#ad), and SwissGear Suitcase (#ad).

Arriving at Messina’s bus station, again I had to figure out how to get to my Airbnb. My directions said to take Bus 1 whose route goes towards Torre Faro, but get off at Via Consolare Pompea.

💡 Travel Tip: Double-check with your Airbnb host about whether you need the train, tram, or bus for your arrival. A location listed as 10 minutes from the train station could actually mean 10 minutes from the tram stop rather than the regional train station!

🏠 A Warm Sicilian Welcome

My Airbnb could not have been more perfect: it was located right across the street from the local bus stop on Via Consolare Pompea. Upon arrival, the host’s father patiently checked me in using a combination of Italian, gestures, and smiles, explaining how the security door operated, how the “dishwasher” worked, and the washer/dryer set-up.

When I accidentally locked myself out because the door closed so quickly, “Dad,” who lived in the upstairs apartment, immediately came down and got me back in. Not a word of English!! Welcome to Sicily – got to love it!!

⛲ The Storica Fontana di Paradiso

Storica Fontana di Paradiso - Due Becchi

Right along this coastal stretch of Via Consolare Pompea lies the Storica fontana di Paradiso. Known to locals as the fountain of the “Due Becchi” (Two Spouts), it is a fascinating historic landmark. It serves as a popular social hub for runners, walkers, and locals carrying large jugs to collect fresh water. Catching glimpses of this daily Sicilian routine right outside my door added such a rich layer of local color to the neighborhood.

Local Vegetable & Fruit Stand

Day Trip to Torre Faro

From Messina, figuring out the train schedule and my location, I took the local bus up to Torre Faro, located at the northeastern tip of Sicily. The route followed the beautiful coastline of the Strait of Messina, where Sicily and Calabria are separated by only a narrow stretch of water.

Forte degli Inglesi 

Right at the very edge of the cape, standing alongside the sandy shores, sits the historic Forte degli Inglesi (Fort of the English). Built by the British in the early 19th century to guard the strait against Napoleon's fleet, the sturdy stone fort contrasts beautifully against the wild coastal waters. Today, it has been wonderfully restored and houses the M.A.C.H.O. contemporary art museum.

Torre Faro / To the Fishermen / Fallen at Sea

Just a short walk away along the promenade, facing directly into the swirling currents of the sea, I stopped before the Monumento ai Pescatori Caduti in Torre Faro Dedicated to the local fishermen lost to the deep waters, the white stone sculpture swoops upward like a powerful, cresting wave frozen in time. The plaque placed firmly at its base reads: "Torre Faro / Ai Pescatori / Caduti in Mare / 23 Aprile 2008"—a solemn reminder of how closely tied Torre Faro's identity is to both the gifts and the dangers of the Strait.

Pylons of Messina

Just adjacent, dominating the entire landscape, was the massive steel transmission tower
rising high above the shoreline. Standing directly beneath it, I photographed the lattice structure disappearing into the bright Sicilian sky. The tower’s scale is difficult to appreciate until you are standing at its base looking straight up!

The Telepass Ferry crossing the Strait

Torre Faro also offered excellent views across the strait toward mainland Italy. Ferries crossed regularly between Sicily and Calabria while fishing boats moved through the busy waters below.

Sandy at the Astronomical Clock

The Astronomical Clock

Before leaving Messina, I visited the Astronomical Clock beside the cathedral. The clock tower is one of the city’s best-known landmarks and draws visitors from around the world. Standing in the piazza, I appreciated both the craftsmanship and history behind this remarkable structure.

With Messina and Torre Faro explored, Mr Bear and I began preparing for the next stage of my journey—crossing the Strait of Messina and continuing on to Calabria.

Mr Bear heading to Calabria. Next stop Pizzo!

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Beachside Bliss in Capo d'Orlando: Brioche, Granita, and Mr Bear's Coastline Adventure

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Pure peace. The stunning, sweeping view of the deep blue sea
from my balcony in Capo d'Orlando.

Today I am sad. I have to depart this beautiful place. I believe of all the gorgeous destinations I have visited, Capo d’Orlando and New Mexico now hold my heart, spirit, and soul. I love it here. I have made wonderful friends just walking about with Mr. Bear, and the view from my Airbnb is incredible, both night and day.

Our new friends, Charley and Titti, at their favorite wine shop, Enoteca Collovà—they loved meeting Mr Bear and showing us their favorite Sicilian bottles!

On my first day in Capo d’Orlando, Mr. Bear and I met Charley and Titti at the small grocery store close by. When ordering at the deli counter for cheese, olives, and meats, I gave it a brave go, but I was completely lost. Pounds make perfect sense to me, but an etto? I learned a hectogram—one etto—is 100 grams, meaning a quarter-pound is approximately one etto. Armed with my new knowledge, I attempted to order: “Un etto, affettato molto fine, per favore.” (A quarter-pound, sliced very thin, please.)

Charley stepped in with a smile and asked, “English?”

“Yes!” I replied.

He kindly asked what I was trying to buy and completely took over the ordering for me. Then came the typical, friendly travel questions: Where are you from? How long are you here? It turns out he has deep roots in the USA but has lived here his whole life. He and his partner, Titti, run an incredible school teaching refugee children English and Environmental Studies. Their wonderful organization can be found at Joy for Children. Next on my list was finding a nice bottle of wine. “Perfect, we’ll take you to our favorite," Charley said. Without a second thought, off I went with Titti and Charley to a wine shop nearby. We arrived at the funkiest wine and cheese shop, Enoteca Collovà. Since 1995, Enoteca Collovà has represented one of the most important hubs in the local world of wine. 

Mr Bear sitting with a brioche bun and local pistachio granita
at Tentazioni in Capo d Orlando Sicily

Before parting ways, they made sure to point out Tentazionia, for best granita - semi-frozen Sicilian dessert made from sugar, water, and fresh flavorings. It is churned just enough to achieve a unique crystalline yet creamy texture, top with real whipped cream, and it is traditionally served with a warm, fluffy brioche. This wonderful delight is traditionally eaten for breakfast here! 

Exhaustion was finally setting in by then, so I headed back to MareBlu—my incredible beachfront Airbnb—for a peaceful nap right on the shore.

May 22: Another Beautiful Day in Capo d’Orlando

The next morning, Mr. Bear and I headed out for our daily walk, this time toward the center of Capo d’Orlando.  

Peg Perego holding Mr Bear in front of the
Sanitaria Germana store in Capo d'Orlando, Sicily!

During our walk, Mr. Bear decided he desperately needed sunshades because the Sicilian sun is so bright it hurts his eyes, so that became priority number one. In the cute town center, we discovered the sweetest children’s shop to source his tiny BamBoom sunshades: Sanitaria Antonella Germanà.

During our beach walk back from the town center, I dipped my foot in the water. The sea here is as cold as Maine, yet there was a brave local man going for a full swim! Along the way, I spotted a sign showing the sister cities of Capo d’Orlando: Culver City, CA, and Fremantle, West Australia. We passed an outdoor gym overlooking the beach and rows of quiet restaurants just waiting to open for the upcoming summer tourists. Moving along, Mr. Bear and I discovered a very typical local shop where household items are sold—carrying everything from massive washing machines and kitchen mixers to Yankee Candles!

By the time we reached the heart of the town center, lunch was definitely in order. Oops—it was already after 2:00 PM, which is exactly when shops and restaurants close up tight for the afternoon Sicilian riposo. Wondering where on earth to find a bite to eat, I asked a shop owner who was locking up his storefront. He kindly pointed me toward Antica Panetteria, a wonderful local bakery.

The amazing, warmhearted local bakers (mom, daughter, and son)
who kept Mr Bear and me fully fueled with fresh Sicilian treats!

For our afternoon picnic, I picked out a Pizza Classica Vegetariana topped with rich tomatoes, goat cheese, caramelized onions, and fresh basil. OMG—delizioso!

The ultimate beachside lunch!

Mr Bear, wearing his new BamBoom sunglasses, soaking up the sun next to a slice of ultra-fresh local pizza.

Mr. Bear and I headed back to our beach retreat to enjoy our delicious picnic on the sand and prepare for our sad departure tomorrow. But my feet continue to be so happy with my last minute packing decision Taos Star Sneakers (#ad). was an absolute lifesaver for our long daily strolls.

But wait, we’re still in Sicily... let’s see what we discover next in Messina!

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Squeezing Through Cefalù: A "Hobbit House," La Rocca, and a Hidden 1909 Cinema

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Squeezing Through Cefalù: A "Hobbit House," La Rocca, and a Hidden 1909 Cinema

After the city life of Palermo, arriving in Cefalù felt like a relief with its slower Sicilian rhythm. Even so, I was initially overwhelmed by the sheer number of tourists; much like Taormina, the streets were filled with intense tourist energy.

What made Cefalù so special was staying in the coolest Airbnb,which I affectionately nicknamed my “Hobbit House.” My host, Maria Marsala, invited me to join a walk with her two dogs, Zoe and Zeus, giving me a rare glimpse of everyday life beyond the crowded tourist paths. Later in my stay, we had dinner at one of her favorite restaurants, Il Normanno, where I enjoyed a wonderful, authentic Sicilian meal and Maria even introduced me to the owner. These are the kinds of special travel memories you just can't buy.

Scenic aerial view of the turquoise blue ocean coast and houses
from the top of La Rocca di Cefalu, Sicily

I knew I had to hike La Rocca di Cefalù, the rocky 268-meter-high (880 foot) promontory that towers majestically over the historic town. Located just a 15-minute walk from my Hobbit House, and 5 euros later, Mr. Bear and I set off. We were determined to discover an area rich in prehistoric history, including the Temple of Diana, a sacred megalithic structure constructed in the 5th or 4th century BC. Standing there, I couldn't help but chuckle thinking about us back in the United States celebrating our 250 years!

Just a bit of an FYI: Mr. Bear and I share a dreadful fear of heights. Keeping our eyes open during the climb was an absolute necessity, even if it felt a bit perilous at times.

Mr Bear and me with two new wonderful friends, Sara and Lucia,
whose encouragement completely saved the day on our way down La Rocca!

The summit views were incredible, but then came the hard part—we had to go down! We were completely saved by two wonderful young women, Sara and Lucia, best friends since childhood who were traveling together. Their friendly encouragement helped Mr. Bear and me bravely navigate our way back down La Rocca. Sara and Lucia, thank you so much!

I love to wander, and guess what else I found? Cinema di Francesca, a beautiful cinema-theater that originally opened in 1909 on Cefalù's main street. Today, it serves as a museum, cinema, and theater. Over its century-long history, it has welcomed famous performers like Angelo Musco and Rosina Anselmi, while continuing to provide a venue for local comedies and variety shows. Mr. Bear and I took an Airbnb tour of Cefalù

The front entrance door and marquee sign of the historic Cinema di Francesca
dal 1909 theater in Cefalu Sicily

Stepping back in time inside the cinema museum
to look at the incredible antique film reels
and early 20th-century projectors.

A portrait honoring Salvatore Di Francesca,
the true pioneer of cinema who started it all right here in Cefalù.

Squeezing through the narrowest passageway in Cefalù on Corso Ruggero
—thank goodness for the flexibility of my MVP Taos sneakers!

Speaking of hidden gems, no one else seems to mention the town’s narrowest passageway, but our tour guide made sure we not only saw it but squeezed through! You can find it tucked away on Corso Ruggero, right next to West Coast Sports. I was incredibly thankful I was wearing my Taos Star Sneakers—that canvas flexibility and solid arch support kept kept my feet so happy!

At night, the cross on top of La Rocca is beautifully illuminated and can be seen from throughout Cefalù. For the local community, it serves as an enduring symbol of faith overlooking the town. Special memories, indeed.

Standing by the majestic summit cross on La Rocca, which serves as a
beautifully illuminated symbol of faith overlooking the town at night.

Next stop Capo d'Orlando!