An Adventures Spirit

An Adventurous Spirit (and a Stubborn ATM) in Palermo

May 15, 2026

Every seasoned traveler knows that a flawless itinerary is just a theory until it hits the pavement. Today was meant to be my completely free, unscheduled day to let my adventurous spirit wander through Palermo.

I checked off my morning packing list: phone charged, both external hard drives ready to hold the day’s photos, water, sunglasses, passport, and, of course, my reliable co-pilot, Mr. Bear.

I was ready to conquer the day. There was just one tiny errand to run first: stopping at a bank ATM.

Here is a very important travel FYI for anyone reading: Even if your bank guarantees your card will work abroad, test it before you leave the country!

I put my card in, entered my PIN, and… rejected. Wrong PIN. After a couple of attempts, the machine froze me out. Because of the six-hour time difference back to the United States, I couldn’t even call my bank until 2:00 PM local time. When I finally did, we hit a classic modern travel paradox: they couldn’t verify my identity because they couldn’t send a security text code to my Italian phone number. A quick trip to the local TIM store to check my phone settings didn’t solve it either.

My backup plan for tomorrow was to try three specific PIN variations. If that fails, I’ll swap my physical USA SIM card back into the phone just to catch the bank’s security text. FYI - didn't work.

It was a deeply discouraging start to the morning, but thankfully, credit cards are widely accepted here. I refused to let a piece of plastic ruin my day. I needed to regroup, so I headed straight for Piazza Giuseppe—the familiar starting point of yesterday’s tour—and treated Mr. Bear and I to a crisp, sweet cannolo and a hot espresso

Stress handled. Adventure resumed.

The Scars of Basilica della Magione

Heading out with a renewed perspective, I stumbled upon the Basilica della Magione in the historic Kalsa district. Built in the 12th century for cloistered monks, it is the second oldest church in Palermo and a stunning example of Sicilian Romanesque architecture, bearing heavy Norman influences.

Standing outside, I noticed deep pockmarks scarring the ancient stone exterior. These aren’t the natural weathering of age. The Kalsa district was heavily bombed during World War II, and Palermo has intentionally left these structural wounds exposed. It is a moving, silent monument to the city’s resilience.

Continuing my walk toward my original destination Orto Botanico, I found myself constantly slowed down by the local storefronts—specifically, the fabric shops.

While independent fabric stores are a dying breed in the United States, they are thriving here. A Sicilian seamstress still has an incredible wealth of specialty shops to choose from, keeping the artisan tradition of custom tailoring very much alive. As a former fashion design professor, and seamstress, I could easily have spent the entire afternoon browsing buttons, trims and fabric instead of reaching the botanical garden.

I finally made it to the Orto Botanico di Palermo (the Botanical Garden of Palermo). If you come here expecting manicured beds of bright, glorious flowers, you will be surprised. Founded in 1779 as part of the University of Palermo, this is a massive scientific and educational institution.

It acts as a living museum, housing over 12,000 different plant species and half a million dried specimens used for global botanical research. The undisputed rulers of the garden are the colossal Ficus macrophylla (Strangler Figs). Their massive trunks and sweeping curtains of aerial roots drop down to the earth like columns, making you feel wondefully small standing beneath them.

Goethe’s View at La Cala Palermo

My final stop of the afternoon was La Cala, Palermo’s ancient harbor. This crescent-shaped waterfront dates all the way back to Phoenician times, though today it has been beautifully redeveloped into a lively marina where historic maritime heritage meets modern leisure yachts.

Looking out across the water from the harbor, you are treated to a spectacular view of a massive limestone mountain rising abruptly out of the Tyrrhenian Sea.

“The most beautiful promontory in the world.”

— Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, ‘Italian Journey’ (1787)

The German poet and novelist was completely captivated by this exact view of Monte Pellegrino during his travels through Sicily, and standing there today, it isn’t hard to see why its dramatic silhouette defines the entire coastline.

 

Walking back to my Airbnb, I noticed the Toys Con Te store filled with stuffed animal and Pooh Bears. Mr Bear wanted to meet new friends.

By the time I finally turned back toward my Airbnb, my fitness tracker read 18,100 steps—roughly 8.5 miles of walking. My feet were tired, and the ATM situation would still waiting for me tomorrow, but today proved that an adventurous spirit and a good pastry can triumph over any travel hiccup. 

Back at my Airbnb, my host Rose introduced herself to Mr Bear. The ATM could wait until Monday.

 Reclaiming the Dream: How I Survived a PayPal Scam and Planned a 38-Day Solo Odyssey to Sicily

​I started working on this magical dream back in June 2025. Then, the universe threw a diabolical curveball: I got scammed on PayPal.

​Recouping from a financial disaster like that can break your spirit, or it can sharpen your focus. I chose the latter. I needed something massive, beautiful, and healing to look forward to. I became utterly hyper-focused on Italy. I’d been before, but I had never been to Sicily.

​Why not Sicily for a whole month? I thought.

​By January 2026, I took the leap and booked my ticket to Rome using my Delta SkyMiles (we will get into that absolute fiasco in a later post, believe me). By February, with some loving probing from friends, the blueprint began to take shape.

​As an ITMI Certified tour guide, I have professional experience planning travel, but doing it for yourself as a solo female traveler hits differently. My trip was set: April 27 to June 3. Thirty-eight days to decide the where, the how, and the what.

​Here is the 20-point master checklist I used to pull myself out of the scam aftermath and get my boots on Italian soil.

​The Solo Traveler’s Pre-Trip Master Checklist

​The Dates: April 27 – June 3. Why? It just felt right at the time. (Spoiler: Spring in Italy is spectacular).

​The Ticket: Secured via Delta Miles (despite the drama). The Delta ticket agent misinformed me: Delta Comfort Class is NOT Delta's new classification for Delta Business Class.

​Current Passport: Double-checked expiration dates. A valid passport is non-negotiable.

​Driver’s License: Up to date, just in case.

​Cell Phone Connections: Learned this the hard way. My eSim failed in Rome, so I switched to a TIM SIM with an Italian phone number. Problem solved.

​Wall Plugs: More than one. You can never have too many outlets in a centuries-old building.

​The Tech Sync: Getting a tablet completely compatible with my phone. If you are taking one, making sure they talk to each other seamlessly is a massive priority.

​Credit Cards: Zero foreign transaction fees, and no need for stressful overseas notifications. 

ATM: Double check your pin, and that it works. Also, check if there are transaction fees.

​Health Provider: Checked in advance to see what my domestic plan covered overseas.

​Travel Insurance: Absolutely non-negotiable. Check the prices, read the fine print, and get covered. Check with your insurance company first!

​The First-Aid Kit: Not just prescriptions. Think ahead: pain relievers, stomach meds, blister bandages, and eye drops. Think!

​The Big Question: Where are you going, and how long are you staying?

​The Wardrobe Reality Check: Citizens all over the world look just like you. Yes, Europeans wear white sneakers and jeans!

​The Capsule Wardrobe: Pack outfits, not closets. Remember: no one knows you, and absolutely no one will notice if you wear the same outfit twice. You are the one who is going to be hauling those suitcases and knap-sack up train station stairs, and rental apartments with no elevator. Remember, Italian towns are thousands of years old!

​The Comfy Pivot: Always pack something lightweight and cozy to change into at the end of a long day of exploring.

​Laundry Plan: Know where and how you’re washing clothes before you pack weeks of gear.

​Shoes: One solid pair for heavy walking, one pair "for maybe," and sandals if necessary. These Taos Sneakers were the MVPs of my Italian adventure. For 38 days they carried me through airports, train stations, ancient streets, archaeological sites, and more staircases I care to count. If you're packing for a long trip, invest in one comfortable pair of shoes for walking and trust them. FYI, both Italian men and women wear sneakers, espeically white. Bonus tip: Don't forget lightweight slippers for the rental. Your toes will thank you.

​Emergency Contact List: Written down, printed out, and shared.

​The Budget: Oh yes, last but definitely not least—keeping the finances tight and secure.

​The Strategy: Friends, Family, and Finding Safety

​Safety is my top priority as a solo female traveler. For more than nine years, I've almost exclusively used Airbnb because I value how carefully they vet their hosts. It gives me peace of mind when I'm navigating a new city alone.

​The logistics of this 38-day trip lined up beautifully. I’m lucky enough to have a cousin in Rome, and dear friends in Grosseto and the Rieti Valley. But because Sicily was uncharted territory for me, I built the ultimate itinerary: a heartwarming reunion in Lazio followed by a deep, slow dive into the football at the toe of Italy.

​I divided my trip into distinct travel hubs:

The Reunion: Rome, catching up with family.

​Ionian Coast: Catania for Mt Etna, Taormina for Ancient Greek Theatre (too crowded for me), and Messina for Torre Faro and The Astronomical Clock.

Syracuse and Southeast - Ortigia a small walkable island with Greek ruins and the Museo dei Pupi. 

Palermo: The vibrant, high-energy capital of Sicily.

Tyrrhenian Coast: Cefalù for a La Rocca hike, and Capo d' Orlando for a view of the Aeolian Islands.

The Journey Home: Ferry crossing the Strait of Messina, train to Pizzo, then Tropea and Tivoli before returning home.

​Getting scammed might have delayed my stride, but it didn't stop my journey. It proved to me that a setback is often just the prologue to an unforgettable adventure. 

​Fellow travelers, have you ever had to rebuild a dream trip after a major financial setback? What does your non-negotiable packing list look like? Let me know in the comments below!