After the energy of Catania, Ortigia felt like a different world. My Airbnb was tucked away in what seemed like an ancient corner alley, just steps away from Fonte Aretusa (Fountain Arethusa), the reservoir famous in legends and literature for its fresh water.
From my second-floor balcony, complete with a dependable place to hang for my laundry, I could look down on five restaurants where locals and tourists gathered in the late evening for lively meals and conversation.
This quickly became a relaxing heaven for me. My morning began with a much-anticipated pistachio cream filled croissant and espresso. Evening were spent on my balcony watching life unfold, below while sipping my Sicilian aaperitivo). Oh, life is so good!
One afternoon, exploring Ortigia’s historical center near Piazza Duomo, I discovered the gallery of Danilo Ricciardi. Words cannot adequately describe the contemporary art I encountered or the warmth and openness of the artist himself. A warm hug made the visit even more memorable.
Continuing my stroll on the extremely narrow, labyrinthine streets, many times having to literally jump out of the way of the overly large SUVs, I discovered the Archimede & Leonardo da Vinci Museum. This museum highlights the remarkable connections between the ideas of Archimedes (214 -230 BC) and the inventions of Leonardo da Vinci (1452 -1519 AC). Featuring many hands-on replica wooden models of da Vinci’s inventions alongside those of the ancient mathematician Archimedes’ drawings and ideas, this museum fascinated Mr Bear and me.
Around the corner was my goal for the day: the Museo of Pupi, tucked away on a small street in the old Jewish quarter of Guidecca. I love puppetry and needed to see, firsthand the incredible collection of handcrafted marionettes, or "pupi." What made the visit even more special was “teatro dei pupi," an afternoon performance of “Chiuso la Domemica.” Magical, even if it was all in Italian – made my day special.
Still wandering about, I discovered a treasure trove of unique shops on Via Roma, Ortigia. At Fikissima, where each handcrafted item contains the history, colors, and warmth of Sicily, the owner warmly welcomed Mr Bear and me. After a photograph together and a connecting on Instagram, I left with birthday gifts and another fond memory of Ortigia. Needing something to eat I ventured on to Ortigia Fish Bar for their ultra-fresh and tasty seafood dishes. How could I go wrong?
Leaving Ortigia behind, Mr Bear claimed the window seat for the journey to Palermo. The comfortable three-hour ride crossed the heart of Sicily, revealing snow-covered Mt Etna, rolling green hills, brilliant yellow spring wildflowers, and views that made the miles pass unnoticed.
It was relaxing to reflect on all Ortigia had offered, and all the friends and experiences Mr Bear and I have shared since leaving my cousin in Rome. Onward, Mr Bear and I go! I highly recommend this is the way to cross Sicily.
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