From Capo d’Orlando to the Tip of Sicily: A Day in Messina and Torre Faro

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A traditional Sicilian "feluca" swordfish fishing boat
docked near the massive steel transmission tower in Torre Faro

After leaving captivating Capo d’Orlando, I caught the train to Messina, Sicily’s gateway between the island and mainland Italy, thanking myself for not carrying more luggage than my Baggallini Sling Bag (#ad), Baggallini Backpack (#ad), and SwissGear Suitcase (#ad).

Arriving at Messina’s bus station, again I had to figure out how to get to my Airbnb. My directions said to take Bus 1 whose route goes towards Torre Faro, but get off at Via Consolare Pompea.

💡 Travel Tip: Double-check with your Airbnb host about whether you need the train, tram, or bus for your arrival. A location listed as 10 minutes from the train station could actually mean 10 minutes from the tram stop rather than the regional train station!

🏠 A Warm Sicilian Welcome

My Airbnb could not have been more perfect: it was located right across the street from the local bus stop on Via Consolare Pompea. Upon arrival, the host’s father patiently checked me in using a combination of Italian, gestures, and smiles, explaining how the security door operated, how the “dishwasher” worked, and the washer/dryer set-up.

When I accidentally locked myself out because the door closed so quickly, “Dad,” who lived in the upstairs apartment, immediately came down and got me back in. Not a word of English!! Welcome to Sicily – got to love it!!

⛲ The Storica Fontana di Paradiso

Storica Fontana di Paradiso - Due Becchi

Right along this coastal stretch of Via Consolare Pompea lies the Storica fontana di Paradiso. Known to locals as the fountain of the “Due Becchi” (Two Spouts), it is a fascinating historic landmark. It serves as a popular social hub for runners, walkers, and locals carrying large jugs to collect fresh water. Catching glimpses of this daily Sicilian routine right outside my door added such a rich layer of local color to the neighborhood.

Local Vegetable & Fruit Stand

Day Trip to Torre Faro

From Messina, figuring out the train schedule and my location, I took the local bus up to Torre Faro, located at the northeastern tip of Sicily. The route followed the beautiful coastline of the Strait of Messina, where Sicily and Calabria are separated by only a narrow stretch of water.

Forte degli Inglesi 

Right at the very edge of the cape, standing alongside the sandy shores, sits the historic Forte degli Inglesi (Fort of the English). Built by the British in the early 19th century to guard the strait against Napoleon's fleet, the sturdy stone fort contrasts beautifully against the wild coastal waters. Today, it has been wonderfully restored and houses the M.A.C.H.O. contemporary art museum.

Torre Faro / To the Fishermen / Fallen at Sea

Just a short walk away along the promenade, facing directly into the swirling currents of the sea, I stopped before the Monumento ai Pescatori Caduti in Torre Faro Dedicated to the local fishermen lost to the deep waters, the white stone sculpture swoops upward like a powerful, cresting wave frozen in time. The plaque placed firmly at its base reads: "Torre Faro / Ai Pescatori / Caduti in Mare / 23 Aprile 2008"—a solemn reminder of how closely tied Torre Faro's identity is to both the gifts and the dangers of the Strait.

Pylons of Messina

Just adjacent, dominating the entire landscape, was the massive steel transmission tower
rising high above the shoreline. Standing directly beneath it, I photographed the lattice structure disappearing into the bright Sicilian sky. The tower’s scale is difficult to appreciate until you are standing at its base looking straight up!

The Telepass Ferry crossing the Strait

Torre Faro also offered excellent views across the strait toward mainland Italy. Ferries crossed regularly between Sicily and Calabria while fishing boats moved through the busy waters below.

Sandy at the Astronomical Clock

The Astronomical Clock

Before leaving Messina, I visited the Astronomical Clock beside the cathedral. The clock tower is one of the city’s best-known landmarks and draws visitors from around the world. Standing in the piazza, I appreciated both the craftsmanship and history behind this remarkable structure.

With Messina and Torre Faro explored, Mr Bear and I began preparing for the next stage of my journey—crossing the Strait of Messina and continuing on to Calabria.

Mr Bear heading to Calabria. Next stop Pizzo!

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A Relaxing Heaven in Ortigia, Sicily (Our Journey Across the Heart of Sicily to Palermo)

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A Relaxing Heaven in Ortigia, Sicily (Our Journey Across the Heart of Sicily to Palermo)

Looking down my actual Airbnb street!
The festive lemon garlands overhead and fresh laundry lines
made me feel right at home.

After the energy of Catania, Ortigia felt like a different world. My Airbnb was tucked away in what seemed like an ancient corner alley, just steps away from Fonte Aretusa (Fountain Arethusa), the reservoir famous in legends and literature for its fresh water. 

From my second-floor balcony, complete with a dependable place to hang for my laundry, I could look down on five restaurants where locals and tourists gathered in the late evening for lively meals and conversation. 

This quickly became a relaxing heaven for me. My morning began with a much-anticipated pistachio cream filled croissant and espresso. Evening were spent on my balcony watching life unfold, below while sipping my Sicilian aaperitivo). Oh, life is so good!

Contemporary art artwork inside the gallery of Danilo Ricciardi
in the historical center of Ortigia

One afternoon, exploring Ortigia’s historical center near Piazza Duomo, I discovered the gallery of Danilo Ricciardi. Words cannot adequately describe the contemporary art I encountered or the warmth and openness of the artist himself. A warm hug made the visit even more memorable.

Continuing my stroll on the extremely narrow, labyrinthine streets, many times having to literally jump out of the way of the overly large SUVs, I discovered the Archimede & Leonardo da Vinci Museum.

Mr Bear and I completely fascinated by the interactive wooden models
at the Archimede and Leonardo da Vinci Museum.

This museum highlights the remarkable connections between the ideas of Archimedes (214 -230 BC) and the inventions of Leonardo da Vinci (1452 -1519 AC).  Featuring many hands-on replica wooden models of da Vinci’s inventions alongside those of the ancient mathematician Archimedes’ drawings and ideas, this museum fascinated Mr Bear and me.

Handcrafted traditional marionettes pupi collection
 inside the Museo of Pupi in Guidecca Ortigia

Around the corner was my goal for the day: the Museo of Pupi, tucked away on a small street in the old Jewish quarter of Guidecca. I love puppetry and needed to see, firsthand the incredible collection of handcrafted marionettes, or "pupi." What made the visit even more special was “teatro dei pupi," an afternoon performance of “Chiuso la Domemica.” Magical, even if it was all in Italian – made my day special.

Boutique owner Grace with Mr Bear inside her handcrafted
artisan and accessory shop
Fikissima on Via Roma in Ortigia, Sicily

Still wandering about, I discovered a treasure trove of unique shops on Via Roma, Ortigia. At Fikissima, where each handcrafted item contains the history, colors, and warmth of Sicily, the owner warmly welcomed Mr Bear and me. After a photograph together and a connecting on Instagram, I left with birthday gifts and another fond memory of Ortigia. Needing something to eat I ventured on to Ortigia Fish Bar for their ultra-fresh and tasty seafood dishes. How could I go wrong?

The incredibly friendly team at the Regional Tourist Office
who saved the day and pointed Mr Bear and me toward the
bus to Palermo!

Sadly, knowing tomorrow I was leaving, but heading to Palermo, I needed directions. Off to the Ortigia Servizio Turistico Regionale (STR) (Regional Tourist Office) where I discovered the friendliest people, filled with so much helpful information. I was happily informed, “Sandy, you and Mr Bear will take the bus to Palermo.” So, the bus it was. 

Leaving Ortigia behind, Mr Bear claimed the window seat for the journey to  Palermo. The comfortable three-hour ride crossed the heart of Sicily, revealing snow-covered Mt Etna, rolling green hills, brilliant yellow spring wildflowers, and views that made the miles pass unnoticed. 

Mr Bear claiming the prime window seat to watch snow-covered Mt Etna
and rolling green hills pass by on out way to Palermo.

It was relaxing to reflect on all Ortigia had offered, and all the friends and experiences Mr Bear and I have shared since leaving my cousin in Rome. Onward, Mr Bear and I go!  I highly recommend this is the way to cross Sicily.

Taking a relaxing break to enjoy a talented street musician
filling the sunny piazza with beautiful melodies.

A Stranger on The Bench — Messina, Italy

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A Stranger on The Bench — Messina, Italy

Looking back, I realize my Italian adventure was not defined by perfect travel days. Instead, it was a series of unexpected challenges, each followed by an equally unexpected solution.

My trip began in Rome with hardly any hot water at my first Airbnb. Then came an ATM that refused to dispense my requested Euros, an eSim that did not work as advertised, a train strike, and not one but two major national holidays when it seemed half the country had decided to take the day off.

Walking down Corso Sicilia toward Piazza Borsellino and Via Alcala
—thankfully with my Catania guardian angel guiding the way!

Just when I thought I had mastered Italy's transportation system, I discovered that "walking distance from the train station" meant something entirely different to my Airbnb hosts than it did to me. Double/triple check which train station they are referencing.

*Then There Was The Overnight Train To Sicily*

My cousin had carefully made sure I boarded the correct train in Rome, so I settled into my compartment confident the rest of the journey would be easy.

My cozy little sleeper compartment before the rude conductor
yelled at me to get off the train!

Having never traveled on a sleeper train before, I had read the “what’s included” for this train adventure. The description advertised dinner, refreshments, a midnight snack, and breakfast. I was so looking forward to this experience. Instead, I found myself in a small cabin with little explanation and a conductor who seemed annoyed by my questions. It quickly became apparent that this part of my journey was not going to match my expectations. I was on my own.

In the incredibly early morning hours, the train crossed the Strait of Messina. No one had explained that passengers continuing to Catania would need to transfer to another train. I sat quietly in my compartment, expecting the journey to continue as planned.

Mr Bear looking completely unfazed and travel-ready on the sleeper train bed
 before our unexpected platform eviction.

When I stepped into the hallway, I saw the rude conductor at the opposite end of the train car and was surprised when he yelled at me. "Get off this train, NOW!"

Completely confused, I grabbed Mr Bear, my knapsack, small suitcase, and stepped onto the platform. Within minutes the train was gone, leaving me standing in a terminal I had never seen before, wondering where and what to do next.

Walking into the terminal unsure of what to do next, I spotted a gentleman sitting on the one and only bench. Discovering he spoke English, I explained my situation. Surprisingly, he had overslept on the train and missed the Catania connection as well. What helped most was that he was from Catania and agreed to assist me in finding the address of my Airbnb. Again, not a 10-minute walk from the train station.

Mr Bear eagerly waiting to dive into our first
authentic dish of Pasta alla Norma at Spritzeria in Catania!

Only after he knew I had arrived safely to my building, did we sit and have an espresso. He spoke warmly of his city and insisted I try Pasta alla Norma and local Etna Rosso wine.

Looking back, my first memory of Sicily is not Mt Etna, the fish market, or the beautiful architecture. It is the warmhearted kindness of a stranger who welcomed a confused traveler and made sure she arrived safely. I encountered this same warmheartedness throughout my 38 days in Sicily. The Sicilian people are so compassionate, generous, and always willing to help.