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| Tivoli on the Hillside |
Tivoli, a UNESCO town on the western slopes of Mount Tiburtina, has enjoyed the richness of their thermal springs since ancient times, dating back to approximately 1215 BC. Knowing Tivoli is famous for its thermal springs and is my last stop before my overnight in Rome and my flight back to USA, I had to go soak in the much-anticipated springs.
Mr Bear and I left Tropea on the train heading to Tivoli,
with the thought of soaking in the warm thermal springs already firmly cemented
in my brain. After my fabulous month of traveling through Rome, Sicily, and
Calabria, I truly felt I deserved this much-anticipated luxury.
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| Mr Bear was ready to make new friends on the train to Tivoli |
Boarding the train, Mr Bear and I discovered we were seated with two couples traveling together. At first, no one spoke. Then Mr Bear decided it was time to “pop out of confinement” and create some fun!! Within minutes, smiles replaced silence as introductions were made, stories shared, and what began as a quiet train ride became one of the unexpected highlights of my trip. Train journeys can be such wonderful, even when you aren’t fluent in the language.
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| Mr Bear broke the ice, and soon we were all laughing together on the train. |
The true chaos began the closer we got to Rome Termini. I happened
to mention I was changing trains from Rome Termini to Rome Tiburtina. No one -
not even the two conductors - had a clue. The advice? Head to Metro B and ask for help. Which I did.
A very handsome security guide kindly escorted me to Metro B. Be still my heart…and
my gray hair!
Arriving in Tivoli, my Airbnb hostess, Claudia, and her daughter
met at the station and whisked me off to my home for the last four days of Mr
Bear’s and my Italian adventure. As I stated previous, Tivoli is a “wicked” old
UNESCO town with so much character. (Wicked is my Bostonian word for amazing,
authentic, awe- inspiriting, culturally awakening and just plain fun!)
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| A quiet walk through the timeless streets of Tivoli |
To my absolute delight, my Airbnb was located on Via Domenico Tani Square in the medieval historic center of the city of Tivoli, inside a 15th century building. Honestly, I was so proud and mesmerized by the building. 15th century.
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| My Home in Tivoli, inside a 15th-century building. |
How many people have walked these dark corridors and climbed these steep stairs? I absolutely loved going out each day and coming back “home” at the end of Mr Bear’s and my day. It was enchanting, to say the least.
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| The steep stone stairs leading to my apartment door. |
One of the villas Claudia had suggested I visit was Villa Gregoriana and the Great Waterfall. Having read about this villa and its magnificent
ancient channels, fishponds, series of gorges and cascades, including the Great
Waterfall, Mr Bear and I had to go see for ourselves.
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| At Villa Gregoriana, surrounded by cascading water and lush greenery |
In 1826, a devastating flood occurred when the Aniene River again
flowed over its bank and flooded the old section of Tivoli. Consequently, in
1832, Pope Gregory XVI initiated a massive hydraulic engineering project to
divert the river. With the tunnels dug through Mount Catillo (Monte Catillo)
redirecting the water, a dry riverbed and empty gorge was the result. In 1832, the
Pope commissioned the land to be landscaped into a completely new public
wilderness park. After an incredibly fast construction period, the park
and its new Cascata Grande waterfall were officially inaugurated on October 7, 1835,
and named "Villa Gregoriana" in his honor. After being neglected and
heavily damaged during World War II, the Italian National Trust (FAI) took over
the property in 2002. They meticulously cleaned the gorge, repaired 750
historic stone steps, and reopened the fully restored park in 2005. I think
it’s important to note that UNESCO includes Villa Gregoriana on Italy’s
Tentative World Heritage List because of the remarkable relationship between
nature and human creativity over the centuries.
Going there, I had no idea, on a very hot May day, after I
toured the villa, Mr Bear and I would be walking down into Hell’s
Valley (Valle dell'Inferno). The descent follows a steep, winding path of over
700 stone steps carved directly into the cliffs of the canyon.
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| The waters of Cascata Grande cascade through the sunlit, lush gorge at Villa Gregoriana, Tivoli, Italy |
Once Mr Bear and I left Villa Gregoriana, we did our usual walk-about and discovered Lu-barittu 1940 on Vicolo Alessandro Olivieri 4. Ever notice groups of Italians sitting outside chatting the afternoon away? Well, Mr Bear and I couldn’t resist stopping to say hello. Before long, we were laughing and visiting with these five sisters and two brothers. When they learned I had already visited Villa Gregoriana, they insisted I visit Villa d’Este and return the next day to tell them which villa I like best.
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| Mr Bear with new friends gathered together on Vicolo Alessandro Olivieri 4, Tivoli, Italy |
That’s one of the things I love about Italy – complete
strangers often become new friends, even when there’s language barrier.
Villa d’Este is a completely different experience.
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| A grand view over the fountains and gardens of Villa d'Este |
Built in the 16th century for Cardinal Ippolito II d’Este, Villa d’Este, Tivoli is one of Italy’s finest examples of Renaissance garden design. Its terraces, magnificent fountains, ornamental basins, and water features have earned it recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Unlike the dramatic cliffs, caves, and waterfalls of Villa Gregoriana, Villa d’Este offers completely different experiences (no descent into Hell’s Valleys or wondering if you’ve taken the wrong path). A true water garden, Villa d’Este, is one of the first giardini delle meraviglie, (gardens of wonder) served as a model for and had a decisive influence on the development of gardens in Europe.
Arriving at Villa d’Este, located in Piazza Trento, right next to Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, a medieval sacred landmark featuring a 5th-century foundation, and a 16th-century red-brick bell tower.
From the outside, the villa’s entrance is
surprisingly modest. You would never guess that beyond its walls lies one of
Italy’s true water gardens. Stepping through a 16th-century portal dating back
to 1521, which features the coat of arms of Cardinal Bernardino Carvajal is overwhelming.
This villa offered Mr Bear and I a
stroll of solitude on a nice afternoon. A time to sit, get a drink of water, listen to the waterfalls,
and knowing I had 11 acres to wonder about.
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| Even Mr Bear needed a drink after exploring Villa d'Etse |
Mr Bear and I really enjoyed Villa Gregoriana but found Villa d’Este to be more embracing - a place that invited me to slow down and simply enjoy the gardens. Besides, I met Nama Kader who was visiting the villa with her family from Alexandria, Egypt. She now lives in Rome, and we happily stay in touch.
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| Nama Kader sharing a moment with Mr Bear at Villa d' Este, Tivoli, Italy |
Traveling friends are such fun. We watched The Organ Fountian together. The fountain uses a clever water-and-air mechanism to play musical notes automatically without electricity.
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| The Organ Fountain at Villa D'Este, where water and air create music without electricily. |
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| Mr Bear relaxing among the flowers after a full day exploring Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Italy |
While in Tivoli, I enjoyed
trying the different restaurants, My two favorites were Cartiere - Banco e
Cucina, where I enjoyed the tastiest Focaccia Bianca and Da Ugo le Pizzelle for
another tasty Focaccia. I just had to compare the two. Both were delicious, but
Cartiere’s bread was my favorite. And, of couse gelato – Lemon and Pistacchio
in a cup.
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| Mr Bear joins me for Focaccia at Cartiere - Banco e Cucina in Tivoli, Italy |
Tivoli was magical. The small, narrow alleyways, Tivoli felt safe and protected due to its tight-knit historic layout, active local community presence, and the comforting enclosure of centuries-old stone architecture.
Tomorrow Mr Bear and I head
to Rome. Another train, another destination. No, I wasn’t looking forward to seeing
“Mr Bear’s Italian Adventure” come to an end.
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