From Capo d’Orlando to the Tip of Sicily: A Day in Messina and Torre Faro

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A traditional Sicilian "feluca" swordfish fishing boat
docked near the massive steel transmission tower in Torre Faro

After leaving captivating Capo d’Orlando, I caught the train to Messina, Sicily’s gateway between the island and mainland Italy, thanking myself for not carrying more luggage than my Baggallini Sling Bag (#ad), Baggallini Backpack (#ad), and SwissGear Suitcase (#ad).

Arriving at Messina’s bus station, again I had to figure out how to get to my Airbnb. My directions said to take Bus 1 whose route goes towards Torre Faro, but get off at Via Consolare Pompea.

💡 Travel Tip: Double-check with your Airbnb host about whether you need the train, tram, or bus for your arrival. A location listed as 10 minutes from the train station could actually mean 10 minutes from the tram stop rather than the regional train station!

🏠 A Warm Sicilian Welcome

My Airbnb could not have been more perfect: it was located right across the street from the local bus stop on Via Consolare Pompea. Upon arrival, the host’s father patiently checked me in using a combination of Italian, gestures, and smiles, explaining how the security door operated, how the “dishwasher” worked, and the washer/dryer set-up.

When I accidentally locked myself out because the door closed so quickly, “Dad,” who lived in the upstairs apartment, immediately came down and got me back in. Not a word of English!! Welcome to Sicily – got to love it!!

⛲ The Storica Fontana di Paradiso

Storica Fontana di Paradiso - Due Becchi

Right along this coastal stretch of Via Consolare Pompea lies the Storica fontana di Paradiso. Known to locals as the fountain of the “Due Becchi” (Two Spouts), it is a fascinating historic landmark. It serves as a popular social hub for runners, walkers, and locals carrying large jugs to collect fresh water. Catching glimpses of this daily Sicilian routine right outside my door added such a rich layer of local color to the neighborhood.

Local Vegetable & Fruit Stand

Day Trip to Torre Faro

From Messina, figuring out the train schedule and my location, I took the local bus up to Torre Faro, located at the northeastern tip of Sicily. The route followed the beautiful coastline of the Strait of Messina, where Sicily and Calabria are separated by only a narrow stretch of water.

Forte degli Inglesi 

Right at the very edge of the cape, standing alongside the sandy shores, sits the historic Forte degli Inglesi (Fort of the English). Built by the British in the early 19th century to guard the strait against Napoleon's fleet, the sturdy stone fort contrasts beautifully against the wild coastal waters. Today, it has been wonderfully restored and houses the M.A.C.H.O. contemporary art museum.

Torre Faro / To the Fishermen / Fallen at Sea

Just a short walk away along the promenade, facing directly into the swirling currents of the sea, I stopped before the Monumento ai Pescatori Caduti in Torre Faro Dedicated to the local fishermen lost to the deep waters, the white stone sculpture swoops upward like a powerful, cresting wave frozen in time. The plaque placed firmly at its base reads: "Torre Faro / Ai Pescatori / Caduti in Mare / 23 Aprile 2008"—a solemn reminder of how closely tied Torre Faro's identity is to both the gifts and the dangers of the Strait.

Pylons of Messina

Just adjacent, dominating the entire landscape, was the massive steel transmission tower
rising high above the shoreline. Standing directly beneath it, I photographed the lattice structure disappearing into the bright Sicilian sky. The tower’s scale is difficult to appreciate until you are standing at its base looking straight up!

The Telepass Ferry crossing the Strait

Torre Faro also offered excellent views across the strait toward mainland Italy. Ferries crossed regularly between Sicily and Calabria while fishing boats moved through the busy waters below.

Sandy at the Astronomical Clock

The Astronomical Clock

Before leaving Messina, I visited the Astronomical Clock beside the cathedral. The clock tower is one of the city’s best-known landmarks and draws visitors from around the world. Standing in the piazza, I appreciated both the craftsmanship and history behind this remarkable structure.

With Messina and Torre Faro explored, Mr Bear and I began preparing for the next stage of my journey—crossing the Strait of Messina and continuing on to Calabria.

Mr Bear heading to Calabria. Next stop Pizzo!

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A Stranger on The Bench — Messina, Italy

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A Stranger on The Bench — Messina, Italy

Looking back, I realize my Italian adventure was not defined by perfect travel days. Instead, it was a series of unexpected challenges, each followed by an equally unexpected solution.

My trip began in Rome with hardly any hot water at my first Airbnb. Then came an ATM that refused to dispense my requested Euros, an eSim that did not work as advertised, a train strike, and not one but two major national holidays when it seemed half the country had decided to take the day off.

Walking down Corso Sicilia toward Piazza Borsellino and Via Alcala
—thankfully with my Catania guardian angel guiding the way!

Just when I thought I had mastered Italy's transportation system, I discovered that "walking distance from the train station" meant something entirely different to my Airbnb hosts than it did to me. Double/triple check which train station they are referencing.

*Then There Was The Overnight Train To Sicily*

My cousin had carefully made sure I boarded the correct train in Rome, so I settled into my compartment confident the rest of the journey would be easy.

My cozy little sleeper compartment before the rude conductor
yelled at me to get off the train!

Having never traveled on a sleeper train before, I had read the “what’s included” for this train adventure. The description advertised dinner, refreshments, a midnight snack, and breakfast. I was so looking forward to this experience. Instead, I found myself in a small cabin with little explanation and a conductor who seemed annoyed by my questions. It quickly became apparent that this part of my journey was not going to match my expectations. I was on my own.

In the incredibly early morning hours, the train crossed the Strait of Messina. No one had explained that passengers continuing to Catania would need to transfer to another train. I sat quietly in my compartment, expecting the journey to continue as planned.

Mr Bear looking completely unfazed and travel-ready on the sleeper train bed
 before our unexpected platform eviction.

When I stepped into the hallway, I saw the rude conductor at the opposite end of the train car and was surprised when he yelled at me. "Get off this train, NOW!"

Completely confused, I grabbed Mr Bear, my knapsack, small suitcase, and stepped onto the platform. Within minutes the train was gone, leaving me standing in a terminal I had never seen before, wondering where and what to do next.

Walking into the terminal unsure of what to do next, I spotted a gentleman sitting on the one and only bench. Discovering he spoke English, I explained my situation. Surprisingly, he had overslept on the train and missed the Catania connection as well. What helped most was that he was from Catania and agreed to assist me in finding the address of my Airbnb. Again, not a 10-minute walk from the train station.

Mr Bear eagerly waiting to dive into our first
authentic dish of Pasta alla Norma at Spritzeria in Catania!

Only after he knew I had arrived safely to my building, did we sit and have an espresso. He spoke warmly of his city and insisted I try Pasta alla Norma and local Etna Rosso wine.

Looking back, my first memory of Sicily is not Mt Etna, the fish market, or the beautiful architecture. It is the warmhearted kindness of a stranger who welcomed a confused traveler and made sure she arrived safely. I encountered this same warmheartedness throughout my 38 days in Sicily. The Sicilian people are so compassionate, generous, and always willing to help.

 

Il Giardino sul Lago - Torre Faro, Sicily

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Il Giardino sul Lago — Torre Faro, Sicily 🌊

Il Giardino sul Lago

I have spent the last month exploring and eating my way through beautiful Sicily, and I can say without a doubt: this meal and this experience were one of the absolute highlights of my entire trip.

​I discovered this hidden gem during an adventurous walkabout in Torre Faro. What felt like a hidden treasure turned out to be an extraordinary restaurant backed by the Arena brothers, a 5-generation family mussel harvesting business. Their sister operates the fantastic restaurant overlooking the Capo Peloro Reserve

The family showed me incredible hospitality.

Mussel Harvesting

The owner actually took me out on the water to watch the  morning harvest firsthand. Seeing the immense passion, hard work, and generations of heritage behind the food was a privilege I will never forget. 🦪🚤 (And yes, Mr. Bear came along for the ride and made quite a few friends along the way! 🧸🍷)

​Back at the table, the food was a total masterpiece—one of those rare meals where you never want to reach the bottom of the plate:

🥂 A beautiful, crisp Sicilian white wine

🦪 Two pristine, ultra-fresh raw oysters

Spaghetti con le Cozze

🍝 The signature Spaghetti with Mussels (harvested straight from the waters right in front of me!)

🍋 A delicate Lemon Tart with savory Parmesan shortcrust pastry and corn ice cream.

​To the beautiful family at Il Giardino sul Lago: Thank you for your warmth, your kindness, and for giving me a memory that I will treasure forever. You are the true heart of Sicilian hospitality. Grazie di vero cuore! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Mr. Areno showing me how to sort mussels

Sara Arena, the sister with Mr Bear

My waitress Valentine Arena holding Mr Bear

Workers sorting mussels harvested in the morning

Mr Bear happliy resting wearing his new sun glasses
after learning all about mussel harvesting