Squeezing Through Cefalù: A "Hobbit House," La Rocca, and a Hidden 1909 Cinema

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

After the city life of Palermo, arriving in Cefalù felt like a relief with its slower Sicilian rhythm. Even so, I was initially overwhelmed by the sheer number of tourists; much like Taormina, the streets were filled with intense tourist energy.

What made Cefalù so special was staying in the coolest Airbnb,which I affectionately nicknamed my “Hobbit House.” My host, Maria Marsala, invited me to join a walk with her two dogs, Zoe and Zeus, giving me a rare glimpse of everyday life beyond the crowded tourist paths. Later in my stay, we had dinner at one of her favorite restaurants, Il Normanno, where I enjoyed a wonderful, authentic Sicilian meal and Maria even introduced me to the owner. These are the kinds of special travel memories you just can't buy.

I knew I had to hike La Rocca di Cefalù, the rocky 268-meter-high (880 foot) promontory that towers majestically over the historic town. Located just a 15-minute walk from my Hobbit House, and 5 euros later, Mr. Bear and I set off. We were determined to discover an area rich in prehistoric history, including the Temple of Diana, a sacred megalithic structure constructed in the 5th or 4th century BC. Standing there, I couldn't help but chuckle thinking about us back in the United States celebrating our 250 years!

Just a bit of an FYI: Mr. Bear and I share a dreadful fear of heights. Keeping our eyes open during the climb was an absolute necessity, even if it felt a bit perilous at times.

The summit views were incredible, but then came the hard part—we had to go down! We were completely saved by two wonderful young women, Sara and Lucia, best friends since childhood who were traveling together. Their friendly encouragement helped Mr. Bear and me bravely navigate our way back down La Rocca. Sara and Lucia, thank you so much!

I love to wander, and guess what else I found? Cinema di Francesca, a beautiful cinema-theater that originally opened in 1909 on Cefalù's main street. Today, it serves as a museum, cinema, and theater. Over its century-long history, it has welcomed famous performers like Angelo Musco and Rosina Anselmi, while continuing to provide a venue for local comedies and variety shows. Mr. Bear and I took an Airbnb tour of Cefalù

Speaking of hidden gems, no one else seems to mention the town’s narrowest passageway, but our tour guide made sure we not only saw it but squeezed through! You can find it tucked away on Corso Ruggero, right next to West Coast Sports. I was incredibly thankful I was wearing my Taos Star Sneakers—that canvas flexibility and solid arch support kept kept my feet so happy!

At night, the cross on top of La Rocca is beautifully illuminated and can be seen from throughout Cefalù. For the local community, it serves as an enduring symbol of faith overlooking the town. Special memories, indeed.

Next stop Capo d'Orlando! 

A Stranger on The Bench

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Looking back, I realize my Italian adventure was not defined by perfect travel days. Instead, it was a series of unexpected challenges, each followed by an equally unexpected solution.

My trip began in Rome with hardly any hot water at my first Airbnb. Then came an ATM that refused to dispense my requested Euros, an eSim that did not work as advertised, a train strike, and not one but two major national holidays when it seemed half the country had decided to take the day off.

Just when I thought I had mastered Italy's transportation system, I discovered that "walking distance from the train station" meant something entirely different to my Airbnb hosts that it did to me. Double/triple check which train station they are referencing.

*Then There Was The Overnight Train To Sicily*

My cousin had carefully made sure I boarded the correct train in Rome, so I settled into my compartment confident the rest of the journey would be easy.

Having never traveled on a sleeper train before, I had read the “what’s included” for this train adventure. The description advertised dinner, refreshments, a midnight snack, and breakfast. I was so looking forward to this experience. Instead, I found myself in a small cabin with little explanation and a conductor who seemed annoyed by my questions. It quickly became apparent that this part of my journey was not going to match my expectations. I was on my own.

In the incredibly early morning hours, the train crossed the Strait of Messina. No one had explained that passengers continuing to Catania would need to transfer to another train. I sat quietly in my compartment, expecting the journey to continue as planned.

When I stepped into the hallway, I saw the rude conductor at the opposite end of the train car and was surprised when he yelled at me. "Get off this train, NOW!"

Completely confused, I grabbed Mr Bear, my knapsack, small suitcase, and stepped onto the platform. Within minutes the train was gone, leaving me standing in a terminal I had never seen before, wondering where and what to do next.

Walking into the terminal unsure of what to do next, I spotted a gentleman sitting on the one and only bench. Discovering he spoke English, I explained my situation. Surprisingly, he had overslept on the train and missed the Catania connection as well. What helped most was that he was from Catania and agreed to assist me in finding the address of my Airbnb. Again, not a 10-minute walk from the train station.

Only after he knew I had arrived safely to my building, did we sit and have an espresso. He spoke warmly of his city and insisted I try Pasta alla Norma and local Etna Rosso wine.

Looking back, my first memory of Sicily is not Mt Etna, the fish market, or the beautiful architecture. It is the warmhearted kindness of a stranger who welcomed a confused traveler and made sure she arrived safely. I encountered this same warmheartedness throughout my 38 days in Sicily. The Sicilian people are so compassionate, generous, and always willing to help.

 

I'm in Italy - What Could Go Wrong?

 As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Rome was my first stop on my 38-day Italian adventure. Upon arrival in Trastevere, I discovered the Airbnb was in Monteverde, a section of Rome about 35 minutes by Tram 8 from the neighborhood I had originally hoped to stay. Travel plans rarely go exactly as expected.

The accommodation turned out to be a two-bedroom flat for a graduate student in middle of exam week, with his father visiting. The list mentioned a kitchen, which was not available for guest use. I also shared the bathroom with host and his father; consequently, hot water was limited throughout my stay. With worn towels and limited promised amenities, I found myself wondering why this graduate student had chosen to make this room available during exam week while his father was visiting.

I will give the host credit for trying to help with my eSim issue. Although we made several attempts, we were never able to get it to work.

The much-advertised Vodafone eSim did not work as advertised. Supposedly, once my plane landed and I walked outside, the eSim would automatically connect. Not so. Despite following all the directions there was no connection, no map, no internet. There was absolutely no way to contact my cousin or the Airbnb I had booked for the next three nights.

Fortunately, my Spectrum service, roaming, and WhatsApp eventually helped bridge the gap. From the FCO airport, the regional train carried me to the Travestere train station. With directions pieced together in broken English, local police were able to figure out where I was headed, and I was on my way. After stumbling off the suggested Tram 8 stop and following what I interpreted as directions to the “10-minute walk from train”, the host met me at the end of the alley and walked me to his Airbnb.

Exhausted, I climbed into bed knowing I had a “Taste Secret Roman Flavors and Hidden Treasures” tour scheduled at 11am the next morning. Did not happen! I woke up at 11am and missed my first adventure.

FYI – Do not book a morning adventure the day after you arrive in Italy, especially if your trip begins with transportation problems, a failed eSim, and an unexpected Airbnb surprise.

Missing the “Tasting” turned out for the best. After much needed sleep, Mr Bear and I took Tram 8 into Trastevere to begin his Italian adventure. Having been to Rome before, I knew what to expect. However, for Mr Bear this was his first Rome adventure. Together we discovered the Museo di Rome, Largo di Torre Argentina, walked through Campo de Fiori (not what I remembered), and made our way to Pantheon for our last-minute scheduled tour. What fun we had!

Before our Pantheon tour started, we stopped at DolceRotonda for an espresso and the most delicious croissant filled with a tangy lemon cream. A must-try treat!!

Our Pantheon guide, Jessica Coppola of JC Tour Guide,was wonderful, bringing the history, architecture, and myths of this remarkable building to life. When she met Mr Bear and realized our stay in Rome was short, she signed us up for her son’s Golf Cart Tour - Rome so Mr Bear could have a quick city tour. It was just such fun! We stopped at all the “must see while in Rome” without walking miles!!

*My cousin Edda and Delightful Husband, Save the Day*

Edda picked me up at my Airbnb and off we went to get Massimo and attend his friend’s May Day Celebration. But first, the TIM phone shop to get a real SIM chip for my phone!! How can such a small item save my vacation? I am thrilled: my phone works and I have an Italian phone number!! Life is Good! No ESim for me!

Off to the celebration. This is a real, honest to goodness Italian feast, and hardly anyone spoke English! Everyone was cooking, laughing, eating, dancing – so much food!

What a wonderful send off for me. Everyone had their opinions “you must see this, do not waste time on this, see the clock in Messina, too many tourists in Taormina. On and on it went all-in good-hearted fun, and me absorbing it all, like I am in an Italian movie.

The night is over. We head back to Rome, for tomorrow I will spend the day with Edda, Massimo, and her dad, before Edda takes me to the train. It was sad to leave them, but I was so excited finally be on my way. What could go wrong?

The four of us had such a wonderful day sharing memories of the many times I have visited Italy, and when Edda would visit me in Boston. How her mom, Aunt Margaritte, tried to teach me a few Italian dishes, and we would laugh so hard because we did not have a clue what each other was saying. Memories!!